Aleksandra Miroslaw, who won last year in Innsbruck, got a bad start in the final race against Di Niu but executed the last ten meters perfectly and won at 7.13, very close to the world record at 7.10. Complete results In the Combined ranking Miroslaw was #9, Niu #10 and Anouck Jaubert #13 after getting the bronze in Speed.

Japan got five female Top-15 and Slovenia got four into the Top-20. The Top-7 will get an Olympic ticket but with a max country quota of one from Japan and two for the other countries, it just might be that Top-12 get through. This also open up for two out of the three Speed specialists getting the Olympic ticket. Complete results Here is the 8a prediction of who will qualify to the Olympics. Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, Mia Krampl, Anouk Jaubert, Shauna Coxsey, Chaehyon Seo and Jessica Pilz.

Tomoa Narasaki won the Combined qualification stage through 1 - 4 - 12. In fact, his Speed time out of the remaining Top-20 is #3. In order to win for Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert and Alex Megos, who are much slower in Speed, any of them need most likely be at worst 1 & 2 in Lead and Boulder. Interesting is also that Italy and Germany both got three to the Top-20. Complete results Here is the 8a prediction who will get an Olympic ticket: Tomoa Narasaki, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Alex Megos, Ludovico Fossali, Sean McColl and Jongwon Chon.

Keegan Sullivan's father Brandon reports. "This July our family took our first trip to Squamish. It was amazing. We were there for a month and enjoyed all the crags we visited in Squamish, Whistler, and Pemberton. The family topped 415 boulder problems! I contributed 1 top, my wife Heidi sent 42 problems and the boys teamed up for the rest – Keegan sent 207 problems at 9 years old, Killian sent 103 problems at 7 years old, and Lochlann sent 62 boulders at just 6 years old." Keegan's 7C+' were Zero-Zero and Jim Carrey. In total he has now done five 7C+' out of which the first more than a year ago. More info at Sullysends.com.

Great semi finals where Alex Megos did get the highest among the male ahead of Tomoa Narasaki. Interesting to see that most of the male just used some 3 minutes and fastest of them all was Sean McColl ahead of Adam Ondra. Japan got four male Top-14. Among the female, nice to see Anak Verhoeven was back in good shape after a long injury but she was timed out that put her out of the final. Interesting to see that Slovenia, with 2 million inhabitants, got three in Top-4 and five Top-12 with Janja Garnbret winning the semi. Japan had four girls Top-14 with Miho Nonaka skipping the semi due to her shoulder injury. Complete results

Here is the Combined ranking prior to the Speed event. It should be mentioned that among the Top-12 female ranking, all but three are from Japan or Slovenia. Among the male, there are five from Japan. In total there are 72 female and 84 male doing the three disciplines. The complete Combined ranking can be found in the Hachioji App. The Speed specialist with the best possibilities to get Top-20 are Anouck Jaubert currently #41 with 1 500 points and Bassa Mawem #53 with 2 800 points. Last year you made it to the Top-20 with 7 770 respectively 11 880 points. As it stands, most probably 2 or 3 female and 1 male will make it to the Top-20. That would also in reality mean that there will be at least one male and one female Speed specialists getting the Olympic ticket. The Top-7 will get an Olympic ticket but as there is a country max quota of two, beside Japan max one, it could be that Top-12 is good enough for the female and Top-10 for the male. 1. Janja Garnbret 1 - Tomoa Narasaki 4 2. Akiyo Noguchi 10 - Adam Ondra 6 3. Mia Krampl 33 - Jakob Schubert 6 4. Shauna Coxey 43.5 - Alex Megos 41 5. Ievgeniia Kazbekova 52 - Kokoro Fujii 52 6. Chaehyon Seo 52 - Kai Harada 56 7. Futaba Ito 82.5 - Sean McColl 65 8. Ai Mori 82.5 - Yannick Flohe 99 9. Miho Nonaka 105 - Rudolph Ruana 105 10. Lucka Rakovec 108 - Keita Dohe 120 11. Vita Lukan 137 - Meichi Narasaki 144 12. Nanako Kura 168 - Jernej Kruder 207

“To be honest, I did not expect to win tonight. After a very exhausting program of bouldering and lead climbing right after, I felt pretty tired and it was quite hard to believe in myself. It was especially hard during qualification, it was a bit better in the semi-finals, and then in the finals, I was reconciled to the fact that I had to put everything into it,” says Ondra right after the competition. Despite the excellent form of Ondra’s two main competitors, Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos, Ondra made almost no mistakes, and in the end, it was one hold that decided about his World Champion title. “I made a few mistakes today, but my competitors made more. I was very lucky in that final step because I was able to do one step more than Alexander Megos and Jakob Schubert and thanks to that, I became the World Champion,” commented Ondra enthusiastically his final steps. (c) Lukas Biba

Audrey Sniezek, who the last five years has not done any routes harder than 8a+, is back in the game with The Sickness 8b+ in Little Si. "An exciting line with incredible moves. Why someone would go out right to the jug, is beyond me. Stay true to the line and fight the pump to the chains. Thanks go out to luke stefurak for fixing a better rope line for the start."