Nobody can for sure know if Adam Ondra made use of the bolt. It just might be that the judges made a wrong call and that Ondra should have been in the final. If Ondra was not called out, Mickael Mawem would not have made it to the Top-8 and Sean McColl would not have qualified to the Olympics. If a similar bolt incident would have happen in Tokyo 2020, there would have been a big scandal as possibly the podium ranking would have to wait like an hour before being official. Climbers stepping on bolts is something happening quite often so it is a problem that has to be taken care of. One possibly solution is just to ask the industry to develop an anti-friction cover that could be squeezed on top of the hanger. Alternatively, the hangers could possibly be made much smaller. If such solution is not possible, the route setters should clearly mark any hangers that the climbers need to pay attention to. Lastly, all hangers that are not in use should be removed from the wall.

1. Janja Garnbret 7 * 2 = 14 (c) Vladek Zumr 2. Shauna Coxsey 14 * 1 = 14 3. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 * 19 = 19 4. Futaba Ito 4 * 5 = 20 5. Petra Klingler 8 * 3 = 24 6. Miho Nonaka 5 * 6 = 30 7. Anouck Jaubert 2 * 17 = 34 8. Akiyo Noguchi 10 * 4 = 40 9. Di Niu 3 * 19 = 58.5 10. Brooke Raboutou 6 * 10 = 60 11. Julia Chanourdie 9 * 8 = 72 12. Jessica Pilz 11 * 7 = 77 13. Allanah Yip 12 * 11 = 132 14. Lucka Rakovec 15 * 12 = 180 15. Vita Lukan 20 * 9 = 180 16. Nanako Kura 13 * 15 = 195 17. Chaehyon Seo 16 * 13 = 208 18. Mia Krampl 19 * 14 = 266 19. Ai Mori 19 * 14 = 288 20. Ievgeniia Kazbekova 17 * 18 = 306 It is expected that the Top-8 cut will be around 400 meaning it is still an open affair for the current Top-17, even if Janja wins in Lead. At the same time, it is predicted that all the current Top-8 but Anouck will make it as they are all quite good also in Lead. This would mean that Jessica Pilz is the favorite to get the last spot ahead of Chaehyon Seo and Julia Chanourdie. It should be mentioned that it also might be that #9 will get a ticket to the Olympics if three from Japan is ranked Top-8. This should also mean that Mia Krampl could get a ticket if she is at least #2 in Lead.

Aleksandra Miroslaw, the Speed World Champion the last two years, has gotten an Olympic ticket after qualifying as #7 in the Hachioji Combined. This means that she almost certain will become #4 or even #3 in Tokyo 2020. Here is how it goes. 1. It is not likely that another Speed specialist qualify. 2. If so, winning Speed is a walk in the park in Tokyo 3. Her qualification score will be 400 which most likely will be Top-8 4. Her final score will be 64 which most likely will be Top-4 It should be noted that as Africa is guaranteed one spot, she would have great chances to become at least #19 in Bouldering. In Hachioji, the Pole was #57 out of 89 with 1T1z in nine tries each. In practice, what Aleksandra could hope for, as it not likely that she based on her on merits could win over any of the Lead/Boulder specialists, in order to secure and even advance better than#4 are; A. Another Speed specialist qualify B. Bad route setting so more will get no zones in Bouldering C. Janja Garnbret wins both Lead and Boulder D. Many False Starts and Falls (c) Eddie Fowke

Based on the provisional Speed qualifications results, three female Speed specialists are currently Top-20 in Combined. This could however change in the final. In order for them to maintain Top-20 Anouck Jaubert needs to finish at least #5, Aleksandra Miroslaw at least #3 and YiLing Song at least #3. Further more Di Niu, Natalia Kalucka, Andrea Rojas and Aleksandra Kalucka still have the chance to make it if they advance from their qualification results. In theory also Patrycja Chudziak and Anna Brozek could make it being Top-3 in the Speed final. In reality this means that 0 - 6 female Specialists will qualify to the Combined final. The multiplication format used means that it is almost certain that any one qualifying to the Combined final will get an Olympic ticket. It should also be underlined that this is in practice the only chance for a Speed specialists to get an Olympic ticket. Speed qually results YueTong Zhang, Elena Krasovskaya and Fanny Gibert are the ones sitting on the side hoping for some bad results for the Speed specialists mentioned above.

Janja Garnbret set a new personal best in the Speed qualifications at 9.16 and was ranked #1 among the non-Speed specialists that probably will make the Top-20. Five from Japan and four from Slovenia made it to the Top-20 Combined final with Akiyo Noguchi ranked #2 and Shauna Coxsey #3. The biggest sensation was that Fanny Gibert seems to miss the Top-20 after a poor run at 10.25 as her best. Complete results

Tomoa Narasaki impressed again by hitting 6.29 in Speed which can be compared to 7.87 by Adam Ondra, 7.94 by Jakob Schubert and 8.94 by Alex Megos. Mickael Mawem was the fastest by the non-Speed specialist with 6.28. Interesting was also that all five Japanese that qualified Top-11 made 7.12 or faster. Manuel Cornu, Sascha Lehmann, William Bosi and Domen Skofic failed to qualify due to not producing up to their best Speed performance.

Bassa Mawem is currently #8 in the Combined after winning the Speed qualification and he needs most probably to be at least #5 in the Speed final. Rishat Khaibullin is #12 and need to be #6 in the final but being #7 could also be good enough. John Brosler is #20, being #4 in the Speed qualification. Long Cao is #21, being #2 in the qualification. Ludovico Fossali is #27 being #5 in the Speed qualification. In theory also Qixin Zhong, Jan Kriz and Danyil Boldyrev could make the Top-20 but then they need to win the Speed final In theory, there could be 0 - 5 male Speed specialists in the Combined Top-20. Complete results

Three female Speed specialists made it to the Top-20; Alexandra Miroslaw #9, Di Nui #10 and Anouck Jaubert #13. Among the male, Ludovico Fossali #8, Rishat Khaibullin #14, are also through. This means that almost certain the winner of the Speed Combined qualification will get an Olympic ticket. Actually among the female, with nine from Japan and Slovenia getting a normal score, probably also the runner up in the Speed qually will get an Olympic ticket. Actually, it was quite close that we got four female and three male Speed specialists in to the Top-20. In the end, Vita Lukan and Michael Piccolruaz were the lucky two getting a convenient Speed result among the specialist becoming #20 overall.