Fred Nicole put up Entlinge in Murgtal as an 8C in 2005. It is a very steep modern problem where you finish by going feet first. It took four years until it got repeated twice both confirming the 8C grade. In 2011, Daniel Woods flashed, video, it calling it 8B+ and later James Webb was the first one giving it 8B in 2014 which now also Vadim Timonov recently did. Using average grading, it should still be considered as a hard 8B+ but in reality, most probably this great test piece will possibly settle as an 8B? As we have seen similar grading stories before one might ask why? First of all, at that time in 2005, we did have relatively few in- or outdoor steep problems where the best could train and challenge themselves. Furthermore, it just might be the very first hardcore problem ending with a feet first move. In other words, as Nicole and others approached this style that had limited experience and it just felt super hard. Personal grading was not that popular in 2009 when it first got repeated and the repeaters just took what had been offered and this was considered as a confirmation. When Woods did flash it, suggesting it could be much easier, he could not go any further then 8B+. If it would have been his FA, he just might have given it 8B but surely he had to take into consideration that three guys have called it 8C. It should be underlined that the whole process is just natural and part of the game. Fred Nicole did, based on his training experience in 2005, think this was 8C which is of course perfectly fine. If he were to try it now, with a more modern steeper training background, he might just think it is equally hard as some of his other 8B classical test pieces. Surely there are other routes and boulders around the globe that just because of better training facilities, beta and equipment are waiting to get downgraded to better fit the standard of 2020.

Fanatic Climbing reports that Nico Januel has done his second 8C in Fontainebleau, Le dernier fléau. Now he is projecting Bombé bleu, bolted in 1991 in Buoux. "This boulder opened by Seb Frigault is the sit start of mega classical roof problem “Gourmandise” (8B stand start). It adds a crazy monofinger jam in a thin crack before reaching the underclings of the stand start."

All climbers - from seasoned big wall experts to indoor beginners - are invited to complete the International Climbers’ Survey 2019. The survey, published by Vertical-Life in collaboration with the IFSC, is intended to learn more about all climbers’ interests and behaviors in outdoor and indoor climbing. With the Olympics 2020 around the corner, climbing is in the midst of a period of significant changes, such as urbanisation and rapid growth. We would like to find out what climbers love about their sport and how they feel about these developments. Your reward for completing the survey is a voucher for one month of free access to all digital climbing guides on the Vertical-Life app. Additionally, many other great prizes from FiveTen, Salewa and Zlagboard will be raffled off among the participants. Completing it should take no more than 20 minutes. A summary of key results will be shared by Vertical-Life via selected media outlets.

Drew Ruana, reports on Insta, including a video, that he had a last day best day after a hail mary work before, sending first the stand of Trieste 8B+ and later also the sit 8C. "Mad props to @paulrobinson87 for the FA of this beauty! Definitely the hardest bloc I’ve done yet!" (c) Brennan Robinson When will you start preparing for the Continental Olympic qualification? I don't think I'm gonna compete because I'm just climbing outside now. Earlier this autumn Drew was #13 in the Combined World Championship and as it stands, he could be the one getting the Tripartite ticket to Tokyo. However, if anyone from the USA qualifies through the Continental Championship next spring, the USA has filled their country quota. In practice, Drew will make it to Tokyo if a Canadian wins (or a runner-up after Sean McColl). The idea with the Tripartite ticket is to invite an athlete from a "micro" Olympic nation but as no such athlete did participate in the World CH, it will be given to the next in line from the World CH, respecting the country quota.

IFSC has published the Calender for the European Youth Cups as well as the Euro and World Championships. Here is the list excluding the event with only Speed. 25/4 Trondheim (NOR) - Bouldering (B) 09/5 Soure (POR) - B 16/5 Graz (AUT) - B 30/5 Sofia (BUL) - B 12/6 Imst (AUT) Lead & Speed 20/6 Ostermundigen (SUI) Lead 03/7 Puurs (BEL) Lead & Speed 23-31/08 World Youth Championship Voronezh (RUS) 22-28/10 European Youth Championship Perm (RUS)

Stefano Carnati, who ten days ago did Dreamtime 8C (B+), has done Dave Graham's classical, The Story Of 2 Worlds8C in Cresciano. The video on his Insta shows the new kneebar beta in the start and also the upside down climbing in the end. "Did The Dagger a few years ago and briefly tried the sit a couple of times this year. Climbed today after a long session. Possibly easier with all the new betas." The name of Graham's FA from 2005, did refer to the grade inflation which basically was stopped due to this boulder. Some thought it was 8C+ at the time. Possibly one reason for the grade inflation back then was that very few did suggest downgrades although better beta was found.

The first climbing photo book mapping 2 years of Adam’s life has just been released! The book contains a series of unpublished climbing and lifestyle pictures that are accompanied by authentic texts by Adam Ondra. Here you can buy if for Euro 55. Although a Coffee Table Book, for me all his stories were of greater interest. Sure, Adam is obsessed but not just with improving and performing like most. Instead, it seems he genuinely enjoys everything about climbing including reading old school topos at age 7 and bolting by himself in the middle of the night in Flatanger. In between he describes some of the ingredients that fulfill his climbing lifestyle. Sure he knows that he is gifted but it might be reading his thinking you will understand why he has been the best climber in the world for many years know.

Alizée Dufraisse, who previoulsy has done two 9a's, has done Meadowlark Lemon Stand 8B (A+) in Red Rocks. (c) Dave Graham "I am happy because it is a very beautiful boulder. It means for me that I can continue harder and try the sit start (8B+), which is definitely the inspiring line. It is a fragile boulder, so I did not had the chance to do a lot of sessions on it, but it seems the weather will be on our side for the end of the trip.