On the new 8a Games feature, you can predict the top 5 male and female athletes at the 2020 Tokyo Games. You can edit your prediction anytime leading up to the start of the competition. Here is my updated prediction after Innsbruck.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Tomoa Narasaki JPN
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN - Adam Ondra CZE
3. Brooke Raboutou USA - Jakob Schubert AUT
4*. Aleksandra Miroslaw POL - Bassa Mawem FRA
5. Miho Nonaka JPN - Alex Megos GER

* Based on the multiplication format, it is likely that the Speed winner in the final will end #4 or #5 even being dead last in the other disciplines. The fastest non-Speed specialists are Miho Nonaka and Tomoa Narasaki. Nonaka injured her knee during in Innsbruck.

Midways into the fourth and last female boulder, heavy rain started and later it was announced that the fourth boulder was cancelled. Janja Garnbret once again made the boulders looking easy doing them all on her first try and was only challenged by Natalia Grossman needing nine attempts.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 33 (3)
2. Natalia Grossman USA 33 (9)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 13
4. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 12 (1)
5. Futaba Ito JPN 12 (3)
Miho Nonaka did not participate due to a knee injury she got on the last semi boulder. (c) Vladek Zumr

Great semifinals where Kokoro Fujii and Janja Garnbret were the only ones doing all four boulders. Among the male, total domination by Japan with seven in Top-16 and all Top-3. Also among the female, Japan got three into the Top-6 final. Interesting is that only three females Olympians and two males Olympians made it to the finals.

Finalists for tonight 18.00: Garnbret, Ito, Nonaka, Grossman, Noguchi and Gejo.
Male at 20.00: Fujii, Narasaki, Ogata, Coleman, Uznik and Lorenzi.

Complete Results on "IFSC WC Series" App.

Stefano Ghisoli qualified to the final based on countback with three other climbers. Then first out in the final, he reached the second last hold. Later, the next four climbers seem to fall mainly due to technical route reading mistakes high up on the route. Third last out is Jakob Schubert finding Ghisolfi's beta with a very high heel hook on the crux and then having good control until the last hold before the top jug. Last out is Adam Ondra and we can all see how incredible tight shoes he has when he puts them on just before starting to climb. It was raining and most climbers did just put on the shoes on stage. (c) Vladek Zumr

He started in his normal fast style but suddenly slips with his right hand and also his right foot cut loose. Swinging out his bent left arm gets straightened out be he hangs on. Then he takes a long rest to recover but then again after just a couple of moves his right foot cut loose. "It is just this crazy slip. It is almost unnatural. It almost feels like his shoes were wet or something." Commentator Alex Khazanov is pretty shocked by what he saw.
In the winner interview, Jakob shows great sportsmanship saying that he would have liked seeing what Ondra could have done at the top.

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 47+
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 47
3. Sascha Lehmann SUI 38+
4. Masahiro Higuchi JPN 38+
5. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP 37+

Janja Garnbret started out last and before her, only Brooke Raboutou had come up on the headwall and Akiyo Noguchi had come halfways. The other five females had fallen doing dynos long way further down. Laura Rogora was second last out but hesitated and struggled clipping the third quickdraw. Then she clipped the fourth very high up making the coming dyno harder and she fell. A fall clipping the third actually looked scary and earlier Viktoria Meshkova had smashed into the wall upside down.

Last out was Janja and in her normal casual style, she cruised to the top smiling. Overall, the Olympians dominated getting all Top-5 spots and with Brooke's fantastic results in Salt Lake City, her extreme progress also in Lead, puts her as one of the top challengers to Janja in Tokyo. (c) Vladek Zumr

1. Janja Garnbret SLO TOP
2. Brooke Raboutou USA 40
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 33+
4. Viktoria Meshkova RUS 22+
5. Miho Nonaka JPN 22+

Finalists are; Garnbret, Rogora, Raboutou, Rakovec, Lukan, Meshkova, Noguchi and Nonaka.
Ondra, Gines Lopez, Schubert, Lehmann, Potocar, Megos, Higuchi, Dhisolfi.
Follow the results on the "IFSC WC Series" App.

Very hard and technical semi final route, mainly on crimpers attached to volumes, made several climbers struggle from the start. Laura Rogora touched the top jug but had been timed out so Janja Garnbret won one hold ahead of Laura. Among the male, Adam Ondra won the semi one hold above Alberto Gines López, some six holds from the top. All the big names made it through to the final Top-8 but Tomoa Narasaki #9. (c) Vladek Zumr

Male results and Female results. You can also follow the results on the "IFSC WC series" App. The routes were said to be 8b+ for the female and 8c/+ for the male. Interesting to see that some of the bolts are covered with non friction holds. The female final start 20.00 followed by the male final at 21.00.

Ogata Yoshiyuki, Jakob Schubert, Janja Garnbret and Brooke Raboutou won their respective groups in the Boulder qualifications in Innsbruck. Among the male, Japan had six guys in Top-10 and among the girls, they had five in Top-13.

In total, 114 males participated out of which 76 did not make one Top including Jernej Kruder, Sean Bailay (winner in SLC) and Olympian Alberto Gines Lopez.

One reason for the big discrepancy in the results is that the best start first with fresh holds and colder temperature. If you do not have any ranking points, the starting order is randomised so you need some luck to not start among the last.

One possibility to reduce the number of participants could be to only allow two or three athletes per nation that are not ranked. Currently, five climbers per country are allowed to participate.