Lisa Klem has repeated Christof Rauch’s Whiskey in the Jar 8A in Maltatal. The 16-year-old’s previous personal best was 7A+!

“I was very excited for this trip. I had only been to Fontainebleau a couple times before. I don’t climb outdoors very often because I’m a competitive climber. Because of the corona pandemic the last time I climbed outdoors was last summer.

Maltatal is located in a beautiful valley with a fantastic view. The temperatures are perfect for bouldering. At the top of the road it was about 30 degrees in the bus. As soon as you walked down and arrived at the boulders with a jacket it was 10 degrees. This was due tot the glacial stream that was next to the boulders, which provided colder conditions.

Actually I didn’t came to Maltatal to do a 8A at all. I never did higher than a 7A+ in one go before. On day 2 I did my first 7B in one go, on day 3 a 7B+ and the day after that my first 7C and on day 5 my first 8A. When I started on the 8A the crux felt impossible. Together with Tiba and Paul we searched for the beta for the crux. After trying all the moves I did the boulder in one go.

When I was little, 8a seemed tot be impossible. It was my biggest goal to achieve this. I worked hard for it and it paid of. ”

During the last 19 WC's and World Championships in which Janja Garnbret has participated, the 22-year-old Slovenian has won 15 events and been runner up three times. In total she has won 30 World Cups, out of which 13 in bouldering.

No other female have had such success in both disciplines. Jain Kim has also won 30 but all but one in Lead and third in the list is Angy Eiter win 25 Lead WC Victorias. Anna Stöhr and Akiyo Noguchi have won 22 and 21 World Cup wins respectively, and two World Championship wins and all of them have been doing World Cups for 12+ years.

It should be mentioned that Janja sometimes has chosen to not participate in all World Cups, both when she was younger and like last month in Salt Lake City, to not burn out.

Alex Garriga, who the last three months has done four 9a+' and four 9a's, has done yet another two 9a's; La Parada de los Monstruos and El Gran Bellanco both in Montanejos. The first one was set up by Ramon Julian Puigblanque in 2013 and has never been repeated and Alex comments, "With kneepads, I think it is an easy 9a. How Ramón did it is another level."

In the picture, El Gran Bellanco FA Petro Pons in 2003. "Very cool power-endurance route. I think 8c+/9a."

Vadim Timonov has done Nalle Hukkataival's The Finnish Line in Rocklands. "I tried it two years ago. I did it with rope but was too scared to climb it with pads. 1st session for this year 😉" (c) Juliet Lenova

How long do you plan to stay and do you have any specific plans?
I have a lot of high and hard boulders to do 😅. I’m here until the 26 of July.

Matt Fultz has repeated Daniel Woods’ Creature from the black lagoon 8C+ in RMNP. "It took 15-20 days spread out over 4 years. However, I discovered I was using pretty terrible beta, and after working out a different sequence I was able to send it in a couple more sessions. Creature is one of the most repeated 8C+s in the world, but in my opinion, it is definitely a step above all other 8Cs I’ve done, so the grade seems fair."

Amazingly, the 30-year-old did his first 8C just over two years ago and now he has done 17 and four 8C+, all during the last year. He is a superior #1 in the 8a ranking game and getting close to the highest score ever achieved. The 183 cm tall and 74 kg powerhouse has previously explained that nutrition is a major factor to his latest progress.

Moritz Welt did the FA of Star Shopping 9a in Frankenjura three weeks ago and the video shows it is an amazing route.

How is it possible that this old Werner Thon bolted project has not been done before?
Well this one was a long-standing project that has only been tried by a few people over the last ten years. The wall is quite hidden so most of the people didn't really know about the line.

Does it exist any other projects like this?
I actually know only about a few, maybe like 5 big lines some of them are crazy hard. But as many people won't expect, there's still some future stuff around here.

Is this the most overhanging route in Frankenjura?
There are at least some climbs here that have a similar roof length but not so many, so it is definitely outstanding.

It seems to be at least 30 meters long and 15 meters overhang?
Yeah but maybe a little bit less, something like 25m long and 12m overhang.

Based on the number of bolts you are clipping, this must be more than 25m to the top?
Well, probably you are right, the wall is more than 20m tall and with the roof, it must be really long then :D.