Janja Garnbret, who two weeks ago flashed Puro Dreaming (8c+), reports with an Instagram video that has she has done Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. The double Olympic champion does the Fred Nicole ten-meters diagonal classic in 100 seconds in full control without a chalkbag and already after some 40 seconds she starts drying off her hands on her trousers.

”Dream first day in Ticino started with the send of Dreamtime 8C, continued with The Dagger 8B and ended with La Proue 8B 🤩”

Dreamtime has been logged 59 times and most give it five stars. Checking videos, a normal ascent takes 70 to 90 seconds and almost everyone is using a chalkbag. The Dagger, which is located on the other side of the Dreamtime Boulder bloc, was originally 8B+ but with better beta it is often considered a hard 8B.

Martin Tekles, with two 9a+’ under his belt, has sent La Planta de Shiva (9b) in Villanueva del Rosario, which Adam Ondra did the FA of in 2011. ”Finally it is done. Such an amazing route, so long, hard and difficult to get every move right. The process was very hard but I don't regret it. It was worth every day and every try.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
It all started in December '23 with my first visit to Villanueva. Many people had recommended going there, saying the routes were amazing. It really is an inspiring place with an incredible community and some of the best routes I’ve ever seen.

I climbed the first pitch of La Planta (8c) and tried the extension two or three times, but it was too cold and I couldn’t hold onto the tiny crimps. Still, I immediately knew it was an awesome route and that I wanted to seriously try it.

So I returned in March '24, but it rained a lot and the route got wet. I came back two months later, in May/June, and it was too hot. Then I decided to train harder than ever—especially focusing on crimpy endurance.

This year, in March, I made good progress but ran out of time, so I had to return again now. The last four weeks here have been a rollercoaster. I kept falling around the same moves, and sometimes couldn’t even match my previous high point. It was a total mental battle—and such an endurance beast. But in the end, it became an obsession. You know you can do it, even when it doesn’t look that way most of the time, and you just can’t stop. I’m glad I didn’t stop and stayed focused. Countless sessions and tries—but it was all worth it in the end.

Adam Ondra, who last month moved with his family to the Arco region, has sent Ziqqurat (8C) in Gaby. - ”Such a perfect problem! not far from flash. 3rd try” (c) Crimp Films

The next day he visited Champorcher where he flashed Gliese 581 (8B+). ”Start felt quite hard, final jump felt OK. Maybe 8B?”, and on his first go sent The ghost ship (8B+).
”Majestic! Freaking moment! Log it as a redpoint for ethical purity even though in my mind it is non-pure flash and the hardest flash I have ever done (so far!). I did a rappel and touched (cleaned) the holds before the try.”

This was the third 8B+ flash for Adam in 2025, who sent Soudain seul (9A) in February. On Instagram he comments further,

”Some of the best days of my life in bouldering 👌 Amazing weather and world-class problems. I went all in for flash on Ziqqurat 8C with beta ant tips from Marcello Bombardi, I got close... But it turns out I should really improve my toehooking game 😀 Ziqqurat is one of the best problems I have ever done, but Ghost Ship is probably even better.”

Clément Lechaptois did the FA of Permanent midnight low (8C+) in May but he waited for the pics before logging his second 8C+. ”Incredible process with this one ! I enjoyed every session solving the sequences & learning the subtleties to climb this thing.” (c) Matteo Challe


Can you tell us more about the process behind the FA?
Permanent Midnight (8A+) is a classic boulder from Fionnay, Switzerland ; opened by Dave Graham in 2006. During my first visit to the area in 2017, this is the first boulder I got to climb on. In 2021 I opened a boulder that shares the same start as PM stand, that I named 'Solitary Daze', and proposed 8C/V15. I also cleaned a boulder to the left of it, and it became 'Big Nose' (proposed 8C/V15 as well) when the young local Dylan Chuat climbed it in 2024. In the meantime I looked at the low start holds of Permanent Midnight every time I got to spend some time under the boulder but I always felt too hard.

In 2022 I shared a good session with Daniel Woods and Giuliano Cameroni, and we found a sequence that seemed working. I came back soon after and managed all the individual moves in a couple of sessions. I got hooked. Super stoked and I started to give some bottom tries. I thought I was close, but when I look back now, I realize I was missing some details making the boulder problem really possible for me.

This spring I came back from the US feeling really in shape. It was early in the season, and I went to the boulder as soon as the road opened. I cleaned the snow on top the boulder to make it dry and started the process again.

My body adapted more & more and the moves that felt so hard before became to feel natural. I started to feel confident that I could have a good window to send the boulder this season. On May 14th I came back to the boulder not even sure if it would be dry because it rained the day before. I think it was my chance because the temperatures had dropped a bit and the friction actually felt pretty good! I quickly warmed up and climbed the boulder first try of the day, giving it my all. Everything went pretty smooth but I still had to fight pretty hard during the climbing.

Christian Leitner has sent St. Anger (8c+) and Puro Dreaming (9a) in Arco. The 16-year-old has claimed victory in four of the last seven Euro Youth Cups/Championships he has competed in and finished as runner-up in two others.

Can you tell us more about your trip and your hardest ascents?
During our training camp with the Austrian Youth National Team, my main goal was to send Puro Dreaming, a route that I got super close to sending last year. This time I came there a lot stronger and managed to climb it on the very first day in just a few go’s.

After that, I focused on having fun and enjoying the trip. At Bus de la Stria, I was able to flash Liftscheisser (8b) and some days later at Eremo di San Paolo I surprised myself by sending St. Anger in one day! It was on my last (7th) attempt of the day, in the dark and with humid conditions! I just thought it would fit my style and it worked out like a treat! Overall, it was an amazing and super successful camp. Nothing was planned at all, it just happened!😂

What are your winter plans?
I don‘t have any special winter plans but I‘ll try to send some of my local projects and maybe go back to Arco to send some harder routes I also had a look on! Main goal is to get more on the rock.

Laura Rogora, who got the bronze in the World Cup this season, is the new Vertical-Life ranking game number one. This is the first time since the Top-10 yearly ascents ranking was introduced in 2000 that we have a female ahead of all male. In total, she has sent a dozen routes 9a or 9a+.

If we only measure onsight, she is superior, with over one grade, on average, above the runner-up, based on ten onsights 8b+ to 8c+ only in 2025. (c) Andrea Donato

If we take the 24-year-old’s amazing 2025 into a historical context, onlyAdam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Sebastien Bouin and Jorge Diaz-Rullo have had a higher annual score.

Anna Kelley, who was #8 in the Youth World Championship, has done After Hours (8B) in Huntington Canyon. The 18-year-old did her first 8A only five weeks ago and then Meadowlark Lemon Stand (8A+) last month.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
On my first day I did all the moves and linked from the middle to the top, but the second move was the crux for me, as I just didn’t feel strong enough on the left hand. By my third session I started trying from the bottom and only stuck the second move twice, falling on the last jump crux both times. When I came back for my fifth session, it was probably the hottest day I tried it and my skin was thin, but I fell on the last jump three times and finally stuck it on the fourth. I only sent my first outdoor V11 about a month ago, so now sending my first v13 feels pretty crazy.

What are your winter plans?
For the winter I am planning on focusing more on comp climbing and preparing for the upcoming world cup season. But I do have a trip to Red Rocks planned during December.

Lorenzo Bogliacino, fresh from a trip to Rodellar, where he did four 9a’s and a 9a+, has done Lapsus (9a+) in Andonno. ”Three years later I would have become a firefighter. The knees — you’ve got to know how to use them too!”

Why do you think you are in the best shape of your life?
Last year, after breaking a pulley, I started rehabilitation with my physiotherapist, Filippo Oliva, and gradually worked my way back to full training. For four or five months, I dedicated myself entirely to training, setting aside rock climbing and trying to save as many vacation days as possible for the summer season.

In April, I got back on rock and began to put all the training to work. Starting in June, I took my vacations in stages in Rodellar and climbed in the Gorges du Loup in the others days! This kind of powerful, physical climbing always gets me in great shape, but this year I also decided to include strength training sessions to keep my body stimulated while working on such long routes.

I believe motivation and consistency are always the main keys. In any case, I never would have expected such a season, nor to reach such good shape for my last October trip to Rodellar! Once I got home, I was immediately curious to go back to Andonno — and in just three days, I managed to finish what I had left unfinished three years ago, after two long months of attempts!

Eva Hammelmüller has sent and Mallorkaos L2 (8c+) in Mallorca. During her last four climbing days, the 24-year-old did also send four 8b+ or 8c’s. (c) Lea Kempf

Can you tell us more about your trip to Mallorca and your most memborable ascents?
The hardest route I sent this week was ‚Odisey‘ 8c+. Climbing this massive line was a totally new experience for me, as I had never ever climbed in such a steep roof before. I loved the process of figuring out in which sequences it’s easier to climb feet first, and how many 360 degree turns you need to save as much energy as possible, as the crux part is right at the end of the roof. The hardest move for me was the nerve-wracking and powerful dyno into a good pocket over the roof edge.l In order to keep it together all the way to the top, I needed to fight not only my pumped forearms but as well my biceps and core pump.😂 Checked it out one day and sent it first go on my second day!!! Despite the chipped holds in the roof, I had SO MUCH FUN in this line!!! In this crag, I could also do the first repetition of 'Guiris go home‘ 8c/+ after a hold broke, which created a cool 2-move boulder problem that cost me quite some nerves on the first day. :D

Probably my favourite route of this trip was 'Mallorkaos L2‘. This route is not only demanding regarding finger strength on crimps and pockets, but as well concerning powerful moves, underclings and gastons. When I first checked it out, it for sure felt like 8c+, but I then sent it surprisingly quickly on my third go - that's why I am not 100% sure about the grade. In coordination with local climbers, we propose 8c+, but curious what other climbers will think! Anyway, AMAZING climb and thanks a lot to the local climbing community for the warm welcome and the hospitality!! <3

On the same day at the very end after climbing another 8b+, I tried ‚Xulita‘ 8b+/c just because the line looked amazing. However, I somehow managed to fall while clipping the second quickdraw due to a footslip and found myself back on the ground. At that point, I found it very funny, and just started again… and then, I didn’t fall all the way to the top!! This could have been my hardest flash if I had focused a bit more in the beginning. Well, I guess I learned my lesson :D. Thanks to Julie for shouting up all the beta despite a sore throat, you are the best!

To sum up, I had such a great week, thanks team, thanks girls, and thanks again to everyone we met at the crags for the hospitality!

Maya Madere, who started out her IFSC season by being #21 in Lead in China, has sent Chocolate Jesus (8B) in Wild Basin. ”My first of the grade and an absolute stunner of a boulder. The small box crux suited me very well. Properly utilizing the large but deceptively slippery right foot during the lip encounter was very tricky for me.”

Can you tell us more about sending your first 8B?
I owe much credit for this send to my dear friend Helen Gillett, who brought me to Chocolate Jesus and encouraged me to try despite my protestations (I had been intimidated by the grade and avoided trying this boulder for some time). To my surprise it actually suited me very well. I did the leftward shoulder move usually considered to be the crux fairly quickly, but struggled mightily with the lip encounter. Tragically, that very session Helen popped a pulley on a devastatingly close burn with both hands over the lip. I vowed to return and send in her honor, which I successfully did after 2 more sessions.