NEWS

Zobolo - all year round destination in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos, aka Mr Kalymnos, has been with a team putting up some 80 routes in Zobolo saying it offers possibly the best summer climbing in Greece. It is located by the sea, near Neapoli, some 2.5 h drive south of Leonidio. In total there are now 300+ routes and the potential is 1 000 including also MPs up to 200 meters.

"A big camping with some bungalows is planned to open next year. The camping will be located very close to the crags and the beach." The picture shows a new tufa sector which they will start to develop very soon.

How come it is such a great summer destination?
The sectors face each other, so you can climb in the shade or sun all day by selecting the appropriate sector for the weather and time of day. Furthermore, the fact that the cliffs face several different directions may offer some protected areas on days with strong winds, which are not infrequent. Both new sectors are excellent for climbing in the summer, even on very hot days. Because there is shade all day by choosing the right crag. Also the wind and the microclima of these new crag gives lower temperatures.

David Firnenburg, who previously has done 20 routes graded 9a or 9a+, has done Blindgรคnger (9a) in Unterwald. "Nice route on crimps, slopers and pockets! FA by Dimitri Vogt in 2021. Located on the left side of the crag. First through the small roof and then resistant climbing straight up. Rather felt soft for the grade (8c+/9a?) but time will tell. Good day with Sam Ometz. Unterwald is a good alternative to Gimmelwald in the region of Berner Oberland!"

How many sessions did it take?
It took me three sessions. I was already close to sending it on my 2nd session but I kept falling on a tricky sequence in the upper part of the route. Itโ€™s nice to see that there is still a lot of potential for new hard routes here in Switzerland ๐Ÿ˜Š

Adam Ondra onsighted Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco in March. In total, he has now onsighted 25 routes 8c+ and 9a at the same time as no other climber has onsighed more than two such graded climbs. In the end of the video, Ondra comments, "Furtunately, the margin was indeed there." The FA Alfredo Webber belayed him and he commented that Ondra did execute all the moves on the 35 meter routes without messing up one single move.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo did Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat (9b) in in 2020. It took him 32 days and for almost two months he lived in the area alone in his van. "It has cost me so much, it's my antistyle and the conditions did not help at all... It was truly, very difficult for me! So long story short, whatever the grade is, I'm just happy to have done it! ๐Ÿ˜ƒ๐Ÿ’ฅ"

Euro Trash 8A+ by Sera Gearhart
Sera Gearhart has done her third 8A+, all of them in 2022. "Finally did this one and felt like I was floating. Learned a lot and had a lot of fun in the process, definitely hardest of the grade I've done." (c) Ryan Moon

Could you say something about the process how you took it down?
This one was really hard for me! I spent a lot of sessions falling on the move to the 10 start. My main goal was to not get really mental from falling on the same move so I tried to be really patient and only go to the boulder maximum once per week. So glad that process worked out! Now I'm looking to try Automator and Nuthin but sunshine in RMNP in a few weeks :)

IFSC inform that Morioka-Iwate in Japan will host a Boulder and Lead World Cup in between October 20-22. This means that there will be a total of seven events each in Boulder and Lead in the World Cup in 2022. Two weeks ago, two IFSC WCs in China were cancelled due to the pandemics.

F-k the System 8C+ FA by Shawn Raboutou
Shawn Raboutou reports on Insta that he last summer did the FA of Fuck the System 8C+ in Fionnay. It is a low start to Foundation Edge which Dave Graham put up in 2013 and Shawn repeated in 2018. (c) Clรฉment Lechaptois

Shawn is the older brother of Brooke Raboutou who is currently #3 in the Boulder World Cup. Their parents are Didier and Robyn Erbesfield who were leading climbers during the 90'ies. Shawn has previously done (at least) three 8C+ and 20+ 8C's meaning his track record is among the Top-10 in the world.

Boulder World Cup for the first time in Brixen (South Tyrol)
From 10 to 12 June, a Boulder World Cup will take place in South Tyrol for the first time. The worldโ€™s best 250 athletes are expected at the Vertikal Climbing Stadium in Brixen. With the IFSC Climbing World Cup, the most important Italian bouldering event with an international line-up is taking place in Brixen. The bouldering wall is unique and is already well-known in the climbing scene. The wall can be opened or closed as desired and offers space and a stunning view of the mountains around Brixen. A large grandstand will be set up in front of the wall, with 1.600 seats โ€“ from all seats you have a perfect view toward the wall.

The World Cup week starts on Wednesday and Thursday with movie evenings. On Friday and Saturday after the competitions, the Vertical Life Party will take place. Food trucks will offer a nice variety of snacks and drinks for you. Stay tuned for the qualification on 10 June, womenโ€™s semi-finals and finals on 11 June, menโ€™s semi finals and finals on 12 June. Tickets and more info at Suedtirol-climbing.it