Enrique Beltrán Blasco, who sent his first 9a+ last week, has done Mejorando Imagen (9a+) in Margalef. (c) Charlotte Veld

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The same day I sent my project [Gancho Perfecto], I tried a test run to check the moves. The next day, I fell on the last move and realized I could do it quickly. In total, it took two more days of attempts, falling on the last move each time.

The day I sent it was perfect. I felt great warming up, and the people at the crag were fantastic—all my friends and the young members of the Aragonese climbing team. I’m so happy to have sent these two legendary routes and to share it with my friends.

How come you think you are peaking now?
This summer I trained with a plan, just like when I was competing, but above all, I’m in a great mental state, with a lot of self-confidence. My friends in the sport have helped me a lot to feel good and motivated, and thanks to their encouragement I’ve been able to achieve this.

Andrea Chelleris, fresh off winning the Euro Youth Cup last month, just sent 20 años después (9a) in Siurana. The 16-year-old climbed his first 9a in 2022 and his first 9a+ last year. Since turning 13, the Italian U-14 Slalom Champion has also onsighted 20 routes 8a+ to 8b+.

Can you tell us more about the highlights of your trip?
After the European cup in Toulouse, I went straight to Spain with my dad. The plan was to stay mainly in Margalef, but after the first week I started to split my skin and I had to tape my fingers. I couldn’t climb well, so we went to Siurana, where I could climb even with the tapes because it’s mainly crimps. I could fast send Pati noso (8c+) and Directa Cornualles (8c) on my 3rd go. Later, I sent Sin Ácido Clorhídrico (8c+/9a) which fits my style very well, so I took only 2 days and 5 tries.

After, I tried 20 Años Después, and from the first try I thought that it was gonna be a fast send, but later it turned out to take a bit longer. To me, it felt like a hard 9a, so I tried to get some info about the route and I got to know that a hold broke (probably an undercling) in the first part. Now you have to grab a mono with the left hand and go to an undercling with the right hand, which at first was quite a hard move for me. After I started falling on the last crux, I knew I was Very close, I fell another time but then when I got there the third time I could send the route.

I have time until the 5th of December so I will try to go back to margalef and see if I can send the project!

Which project do you refer to?
In margalef I fell on the last crux of Victimas Perez (9a) probably five times or more but one try I was really close.

How much schooling and work on a trip like this for you and your father?
I do homeschooling so on rest day I can study but my dad had to take a break from his work, he does tree climbing (he cut trees).

Sam Weir, who last week did his fourth 8C+, has repeated Dave Graham’s classical From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. The 31-year-old works full time as a proposal/ contract manager in the nuclear field and interestingly, he has no sponsor, and all his 8C+’, he has done the last two years.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Yeah, I tried it a session in 2019 and fell on the mantle. Then last week I fell due to cold hands in the middle a few times… Came back a week later, gave a few tries on Arrival of the Birds (9A), went down the hill and it went right away. It fits me really well and this heel hook match at the lip was my crux actually😂 Luckily I found and copied D Woods beta and made it chill for me.

How many sessions have you put in and what is the project status on AOB?
It’s going super well so hopefully I stay injury free and can make it count while I’m still young enough 😅

How does a normal climbing week look like?
Right now I’m trying to be in outdoor shape so I train hard Monday weights and board. Wednesday light big holds session/ anti style blocs. Then rest 2 days for Saturday outside. Sometimes Sunday too if I feel ok.

Do you normally train in a climbing gym?
No, just a 53 degree board in a warehouse I rent with some friends in the Chamonix region.

How long is the drive to Chironico and are you going also next weekend?
If my split heals, yes. 4.30 hours driving, but I’m American so it’s close 😂. We have a close friend that lives in Ticino and hosts us. It’s for this reason I have been able to succeed this year. Game changer.

Marco Sappa, who last year did an 8c trad line, has completed Necronomicon (8b+) in Canyonlands. The 30‑meter roof crack was FA’d by Jean‑Pierre Ouellet in 2011 and has been repeated just five times. Its long hand‑to‑fist jams lead into a sustained 6‑meter “green‑size” section, making it one of the most physically and mentally demanding trad routes in the world. (c) Mary Eden

”There's no information or guides, and the area is so vast it's impossible to find if you don't know where it is. There's very little information online. I started dreaming. But dreams always have to face reality: it's not easy to reach, and it's not easy leaving your family for a long time, especially with young children, and also, as with any good project, there could be a good chance of failure. Honestly, after the initial enthusiasm, I had put the idea aside a little. Over the course of the year, however, it would come back to me every now and then, and I'd think about it, going back to the few photos and videos I could find online.

Then, over the summer, Thomas and I started thinking that we could actually return to Utah for the fall. So I decided to think seriously. I started asking my contacts for information, and finally Pete Whittaker gave me the GPS location. Okay, now the next thing was about specific training. The problem is that in Europe we don't have similar lines; there's nothing that can prepare you for that kind of physical commitment. Over the years, I've learned that if you don't arrive in Utah physically ready, it takes a long time to adapt, to get your muscles used to that intensity, and above all, to be able to maintain it for a long time because the lines are very long.

The only way is to do it on artificial structures. At home, I built 4 meters of crack climbing, and as soon as the summer season ended, I added specific sessions for a month. The great thing about crack climbing is that if you're motivated, you can train even when you can't hold the holds anymore, so in September I managed to climb some great projects I'd had in mind, and in the meantime, I was able to train for Necronomicon.

We left on October 13th, and on Thursday the 16th, I did my first day on the project. The first part, the jam, is hand–fist climbing, long but relatively easy. Then comes the section of more than 6 meters of "green" climbing. The first try was a bit of a shock: it seemed impossible to "stay on"; it's really narrow, and besides your hands, the problem is that your feet can't fit. The other great difficulty of Necronomicon is "trying it." Going back and forth under a ceiling isn't very comfortable, and if you fall long, you have to climb back up, and it's exhausting — all this while carrying a lot of Friends. Initially, I focused on the hard section, and slowly I began to gain some confidence with those elusive jams. And I did all the moves individually. I got used to feeling my feet better and climbing with that constant feeling of precariousness.

On the third session, I managed to do the entire hard sequence, with the Friends already placed, and I realized that I probably should have done it all without placing any Friends. I started with a few attempts from the beginning; the key would be to climb the first section very well and quickly to arrive as fresh as possible at the "hard" section. At the end of the green sequence, with a beautiful and very strange move, "U-Turn" (feet first), you manage to lock your knees and breathe. After that, the route gets easier, but it's still long and you have to fight to the end. In sessions 4 and 5, I fell 3 or 4 times at the end of the hardest section, making crazy swings and brushing the bushes below. Honestly, I felt a pressure I'd never felt before, and I also felt a little guilty towards my family. The more you realize you're about to succeed, after having invested so much, the harder it is, the more stressful it is. You have to keep all these emotions under control and make sure they don't take over. It wasn't easy. On day 6, I did it on my second try. An incredible emotion. Definitely the hardest crack I've ever climbed, physically and mentally. I'm very proud to have managed to take another step forward in my crack climbing experience.”

Ryuichi Murai, with six 8C+ boulders under his belt, has repeated Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Red Rock (NV). ”On this trip it took me 6 sessions. When I did Sleepwalker two years ago, it took me 8 sessions, so in total I’ve spent 14 sessions on it.”

The 31-year-old Japanese did ten Worlds Cup until 2019 and his best result was fifth. Since he stopped competing he has sent some ten boulders 8C and beyond and he has also dedicated a lot of time projecting Alphane (9A) and Burden of Dreams (9A).

For the first five days of this trip he failed doing the big span move to the sloper but later found some minor micro adjustments and sent it the second time he passed the crux and he comments.

“I finally achieved what I came here for. The desert was surprisingly rainy at first, but I stayed fresh every session, physically and mentally, and in the end everything fell into place. The real crux was the full span sloper after linking into Sleepwalker. The day I finally stuck that move was the day I sent. For a total of five days, I just kept slapping that sloper and falling again and again. Looking back, everything came down to sticking that one move. Behind it were endless micro adjustments and tick tweaks, so subtle they probably looked like nothing from the outside. Still, I threw every bit of technique and creativity I have built up into making that sloper reachable. On the attempt where I first stuck it, I was too pumped and fell on the last jump. But after a long break and a reset of all the mixed emotions inside me, the next try was the one, and everything clicked. When I barely topped Sleepwalker two years ago, “Return” felt like a dream. I never imagined I would stand on top of this boulder again. This success reminded me not to put limits on myself.”

What is the status of your next project, Shaolin (9A)?
The execution isn’t super consistent yet, but I’ve figured out all the moves.

Erwan Legrand, with two 9a’s to his name, has done the first ascent of Beginning of the strongness (9a) in Buoux. The 17-year-old is son to Francois, the best competition climber between 1990 and 1995, winning all three World Championships and 15 out of 27 World Cups.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I first tried this project in spring 2024 after sending another 9a at the crag. The route shares the same start with an 8b+, then traverse to the right with a crux around 8A boulder, before ending in an 8c+. Once I figured out how the crux worked, I could immediately start to try from the ground as I already knew both common sections. Unfortunately, during the summer (2024), I injured my left Achille’s tendon due to all the heel hooks I was using in the route. So I couldn’t try the route anymore during 5 or 6 months and when I was finally recovered it started to get too cold for me. This year (2025), I haven’t climbed outside that much, so my number of sessions on the project has been very limited and even if I did some very close attempts, I wasn’t able to reach the top. In September, I’ve learned that my club planed a one-week trip to Buoux in early November. That was the perfect opportunity to finish this project. After a chill first day at the crag, I finally got back on the route with good conditions, I warmed up, checked the moves again, brushed the holds, and rested about 3 or 4 hours before my attempt. Then I started climbing and everything fell into place. I mastered the crux, and fought hard in the end of the 8c+ before clipping the anchor of this new test piece.

What is your project status on Le Bombé Bleu?
[It was bolted in 1991 and has over the years been tried by several of the top climbers.] I did all moves except the famous jump, but was very close to stick it. I also linked from it to the end of the difficulties, which is probably a 10 moves 8c+/9a. So I can imagine that coming from the jump, which is estimated to be 8A+ single move, that would be something around 9a+/b.

And I’m trying the route barefoot, which, for me, makes the whole thing significantly easier but at the same time much trickier, so it requires even more work as you can easily spend 10 secs to get your big toe in a pocket

Jan Štipek, who got the bronze in the Euro Youth Championship in August, has sent Wild Publico (9a) in Margalef, in three plus two tries. The 17-year-old sent his first 9a almost one year ago, in only three tries, so 9a+ should also be within reach.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The ascent was pretty quick — I needed three attempts before climbing Pal Publico, and then two more tries for Wild Publico itself. I was a bit scared in the first boulder where there’s a jump into a one-finger pocket, but I managed it pretty well, and after that it was mainly about holding on through the two cruxes from Pal Publico.

How long is your trip and what is the plan once getting back home?
Our trip is just under a month, and once I’m back I’m planning to train a lot for competitions and for some nice outdoor boulders as well.

Malik Schirawski, with six 9a’s under his belt has done Era Vella (9a) in Margalef and La Reina Mora (9a) in Siurana. The 20-year-old needed only six respectively four sessions sending the two classics. (c) Abainmp

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
The process starts a little while back, already in spring, I was in kind of in a hole questioning a lot of my to date goals (if they where "mine" etc) and a friend, who I was in Spain with at the time, spoke about the idea of "The BIG four", the challenge felt appealing, as its at least a little bit, out of the pattern of logic progression. One of the main factors of this challenge was, as the name is suggesting, to tackle the long and striking lines in Catalunya. So this autumn I set off, originally planning to try only two and then return home and come back, but some misfortunate events in the beginning of my trip made me staying for a bit longer.

I first did "Era Vella", which was alot of fun, as it felt quite intimidating in the beginning, and after that, I tried Seleccio Natural (9a) and La Reina Mora, kind of at the same time, always training in between to keep some sort of shape. And on my last day I did La Reina Mora, it felt really epic to stick the last jump move... For Seleccio I will need to return someother time, and also for the fourth one ;) [Esclatamasters (9a)].

What is your climbing background?
Well, I started in comp climbing, but got pulled outside fairly quick (thanks to my old coach Isabelle Kautz) and was then driving it a little bit on two roads for a while, until I decided to stop competing around the age of 14/15. Ever since I fully focus on outdoor climbing, and really using climbing as a tool to see and experience life, so its great.

What are your winter plans?
As I will attend my A-Level exams in spring, I will just train and study, and also boulder a bit which I’m excited about as I have not been bouldering much seriously so far :))

Sean Houchins-McCallum has sent Echalo (8C) in Clear Creek Canyon (CO). The last time the 21-year-old climbed outdoors was eight months ago. ”First 15, certainly won’t be the last. Just barely squeaked it out before I had to leave back for Iowa. 4 sessions total, so excited.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did Echale (8B+) in one session back in the spring, then came back over thanksgiving week and the low start took me 3 more sessions. So four in total.

How is your weekly climbing set up?
My weekly climbing life has essentially no structure 😂 I climb around 6-7 times a week on the tension board 2 in my home gym for around 3 hours and that’s all the training I do. Yeah literally all I do is just try hard tension board climbs.

I live in Iowa so there isn’t much outside to go try, so I just took a trip out to Colorado for the week and tried a bunch of hard stuff here.

How much outdoor climbing is there where you live?
I live in Iowa so there isn’t much outside to go try, so I just took a trip out to Colorado for the week and tried a bunch of hard stuff here. There’s one place within an hour drive from me that has like 2 climbs that won’t completely crumble on you however you grab it. So basically nothing lol.

How long driving to find good climbing outdoors?
Depends how good, I could drive 7-8 hours and reach Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas or Holy Boulders in Illinois, or I could drive about 10 hours and get to Colorado. Arkansas and Holy Boulders are the closest spots I would actually consider good.

So Iowa could be the worst place to live in, fancy outdoors?
Maybe not the very worst but I think it’s up there 😂 Maybe somewhere in Kansas or Nebraska? But then again you’re closer to Colorado in Kansas or Nebraska so idk. I think if you want good established hard boulders Iowa might be the worst 😂

What are your winter plans?
Not sure yet, probably just keep board climbing haha. As of right now I don’t think I’m planning another trip until the spring.

Marcello Bombardi, who two weeks ago sent an 8C boulder as well as an 8B (+) trad line, has repeated Matteo Gambaro and Allesandro Cariga’s multipitch La fenice (8c) in Mongioie. The 32-year-old competed actively in IFSC events for 17 years until last year and in 2017 he won in Chamonix. (c) Crimp Films

”As climbers, we often find ourselves fantasizing about the next line to climb even before we’ve actually finished the one right in front of us, just as we dream of famous places before visiting the beautiful crag near home. I’m the first to admit that I love traveling to climb in new places and, at the same time, discovering different cultures and getting to know new environments. But if we pause for a moment and look at what’s in our own backyard—especially for those like me who are lucky enough to live in areas with great climbing—we might discover that we can live meaningful experiences in places we never imagined, without needing to travel far.

Over the past few months, free from many commitments, I’ve found myself very comfortable with this philosophy, and the experience on La Fenice is just one of many. Mongioie isn’t exactly around the corner for me, but still closer than many other spots. I had been told it was a magical place with an exceptional wall of rock, but I hadn’t yet experienced it firsthand. On top of that, there was an interesting route for the level of difficulty, and Matteo himself praised its beauty, calling one of the pitches among the finest he had ever bolted—and Matteo has bolted quite a few great ones. So why not go and take a look? Expectations were high, but they were anything but disappointed.

Although it’s a multipitch route, La Fenice packs all its difficulties into the first two pitches: a tricky 8a and the crux, an 8c, followed by three easy pitches leading to the top. An 8c on small crimps on the second pitch gave me confidence that I could get it done quickly. Instead, a scorching summer sun, razor-sharp crimps on the crux, and an awkward hanging belay with no escape routes turned out to be tough obstacles, making the experience longer, more exhausting, more fought for—and more memorable.

After an initial reconnaissance lap in July—definitely not in the best friction conditions—I went back for two days in October, with cooler temperatures and higher hopes. On both days, we were hit by a mix of low clouds and fog: sometimes discouraging and soaking us with humidity, sometimes a blessing that shielded us from the still-strong sun. When it came time to start my first attempt on the second day, tension rose. It might be the last good go with the skin I had left. I had to perform now if I didn’t want to plan yet another trip, find new partners, and repeat the long hike again. I wanted to enjoy climbing this sheet of incredible grey limestone, but I also wanted to finish the route. Ready for a battle with the pump, I finally left the uncomfortable belay. I managed to climb smoothly, trust my feet, let the rock sink into my fingertips, and latch the final good crimp.”