Laura Rogora reports on Insta that she has done a 2nd go ascent of Roberto Podio's recent 8c+ FA, Vertical Park L1+L2+L3 (8c+) in Collepardo. The day before she did the FA of 80 ghisa 9a. This is an 80-move link-up where she added a traverse bolt in between a short 8b and Unchio L2. The latter is a 60 moves route she made the FA of eleven days ago and thought was a soft 9a. Now the 21-year-old says better beta has been found so Unchio L2 should be considered 8c+.

Ten days ago, she also repeated Adam Ondra's Pungitopo 8c+/9a in Arco on her 4th go. "Perfect rock + amazing moves = one of the best lines in Trentino", she commented on Insta.

Which route did you like the most and which one did you find the most challenging?
The most challenging was definitely 80 ghisa. The one I liked the most was Pungitopo, the line and the rock is outstanding. Even Mental trip is a superb line but unfortunately the rock is not always perfect.

What's next for you?
I will climb in Santa Linya for 10 days at the end of October and then on November 7th, we will start the (Olympic) preparation with the Italian team in the new training center.

Laura has done roughly 20 routes 8c+/9a to 9b and if you factor what she and others have climbed over just the last two years, she is probably among the Top-20 global sport climbers, male or female. She has won two World Cups which puts her in the talented company of other top rock and comp performers, Janja Garnbret and Anak Verhoeven.

Elnaz Rekabi from Iran has been competing actively since 2007 and last year she took the bronze in the Combined World Championship. Last weekend, she was #4 in the Boulder & Lead Championship in South Korea and for the first time in her career, she opted to compete without a hijab. 8a tried to get in contact through her Insta without success. Now The Guardian comes with terrifying news that her friends have been unable to contact her since Sunday.

"The BBC also quoted “well-informed sources” as saying Elnaz Rekabi’s passport and mobile phone had been confiscated before she boarded a plane back to Tehran on Tuesday. The BBC World Service presenter Rana Rahimpour tweeted that “there are concerns about her safety”.

She published an Insta story, with a rather dubious and suspicious explanation, "I firstly apologise for all the concerns I have caused. Due to the timing and sudden call to begin the climb my hijab unintentionally became problematic. I am currently on my way back to Iran alongside the team based on the pre-scheduled timetable."

The IFSC, who has been in contact with Ms Rekabi and the Iranian Climbing Federation, has made an official statement that finshes with, "The IFSC fully support the rights of athletes, their choices, and expression of free speech."

Camilla Moroni, who the last three weeks has sent two 8A+, has done Delusion of grandeur (8A+) and Willenberg Dach (8A) in Chironico.

The 21-year-old Italian was #9 in the World Cup this year and in the 8a ranking game she is #6.

How can you explain being in such good shape outdoors lately?
I think for being in a good shape outdoors I really need to climb a few times on rock to gain that tension and finger strength you are not used to training during the comp period, I get stronger on rock just by climbing a lot on this specific style.

The men, making it to the final in the Morioka Combined World Cup, will take a go through three rounds that include 12 boulders and 3 routes in just two days. For the women, the three rounds of the competition will be held over three days instead of two. Several of the best European competitors are missing but Japan (16), USA (7), Korea (7), Germany (6), France (5) and Belgium (4) are fielding sizeable teams.


Thursday, 20 October: (UTC +9:00)
9:00 AM Boulder qualification
2:30 PM Lead qualification

Friday, 21 October:
9:00 AM Boulder semi
12:30 PM Lead semi
6:10 PM Men's Boulder and Lead final

Saturday, 22 October:
2:40 PM Women's Boulder and Lead final

Jana Svecova has done the FA of Jaxitax low (8A+) in Moravský kras. "Amazing to get back after 2 years and do the lower version of such a great 8A." It should be noted that originally the stand start version was graded 8B.

Tomoa Narasaki had an amazing Asia Championship winning Lead, Boulder, and the Combined Lead & Boulder. Chaehyun Seo won both Lead and the Combined and took the bronze in Boulder which was won by Futabo Ito. Lead & Boulder: 1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 177.3 - Chaehyun Seo KOR 177.5
2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 175.7 - Natsuki Tanii JPN 176.6
3. Dohyun Lee KOR 167.2 - Futaba Ito JPN 158.0

If the Combined would have been run with the new suggested format giving 5 and 10 points for the zones, Tomoa would have placed second to Kokoro Fujii, as Fujii got one more zone.

William Moss has flashed Trebuchet (8c) in New River Gorge (WV). "Omg hardest flash of my life. Probably my proudest moment in climbing yet. First route of the day but did some bat hangs to avoid the flash pump."

Two days later the 17-hear-old did . ”New route I think I have the fifth ascent. Many ascensionests took mid 14 but Tyler and I agree it’s much harder than treb and deserves 8c+. Also the resting hold broke the day before I sent making the last crux the hardest one at least for me. Amazing climb that feels straight out of Rifle.”

Daniel Fuertes has done the FA of Excelsior (9a+) in Foz de Zafrané. The 42-year-old did his first 8a in 1997 and now he has done 1 258 up to 9a+. Last week he did another 9a+ and explained why he is sending harder than ever during the last two years. "Now, is more difficult for me to travel for climbing routes onsight and it’s more comfortable climbing hard projects close to home." (c) Nacho Fuertes Olles

Can you tell us a little more about your ascent and the process?
I started testing the route a few seasons ago when I bolted it. I tried days I climbed close to home, just seeing the moves, knowing the way. The last autum, I tried it more seriously but I couldn’t do it, so it became my priority this year. In spring, there were very bad conditions and I could barely focus on it, but this autumn I came back and felt good from the beginning and I managed to chain it in a few days 🤗. Now, I need some relaxation and enjoy climbing onsight different routes 🤗.

Gonzalo Larrocha has done La fuga de Picasso (9a) in , which Jonathan Flor did the FA of last month. ”I spent many days trying it during September, but now it is difficult to find people to climb there. The route is a real challenge on kneebars and I used some of the most technical in my life. The route has a first 8b+ section and after a good rest, you continue on to the main section. After that, you climb another 8b. It's more or less 45m, out of which in a roof, and the rest is really overhanging.”

In total, the 38-year-old has logged 1 823 routes 8a and harder, out of which 26 are graded 9a to 9a+. During the last 12 months, he has sent 142 routes 8a and harder.

How many days a week do you climb and what does your normal climbing week look like?
Usually, I climb 4 days a week and train 2 more days. This year I finish my job at 13:00 on Tuesday and Friday, and this is when I go climbing during the week, and also on the weekend. I like both long-time projects and multiple ascents. Now I don't have too many routes to do fast near home.

What is your next plan? When I recover my hand I would like to return to Margalef. I injured my ligaments trying , and now I don't have power on two finger pockets.