NEWS

Stefano Ghisolfi does The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C)
Stefano Ghisolfi, who did his first 8C+ last month, has sent The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano. First ascended by Dave Graham in 2005, the name was a tongue-in-cheek reference to the grade inflation debate at the time, something Graham later addressed in follow-up statements as well as down grading many of his hardest ascents, that helped curb the trend. Today, some have called it a soft 8C due to the use of kneepads. (c) Sara Grippo

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried it for 4 days. I struggled a lot on the first shoulder move and had to find a beta that worked well for me, but I kept falling a lot there.

How crucial is it to use a kneepad?
In this boulder probably doesn't change much, it just makes the first moves before the shoulder a bit faster and easier. Someone says it's an easy 8C, I say there's no such a thing as easy 8C ๐Ÿ˜…

Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessions. (c) Adri Martinez

โ€Proposing a grade for a first ascent is never easy, especially for a project that has pushed me to my limit for years. I feel a great sense of responsibility, particularly since this is one of the hardest routes in the world, so I think itโ€™s worth taking the time to stop and reflect carefully.

Before making a grade proposal, Iโ€™ve tried to set my emotions aside and be as analytical as possible. Iโ€™ve also asked for other peopleโ€™s opinions, because in a way, something like this feels bigger than me. Even so, I admit I still have doubts, and Iโ€™m sure I still will until more climbers are able to try it and share their views.

The route has taken me to a level of effort I have never experienced before, both physically and mentally. Factors like conditions and skin added a level of complexity that led to many more days of work, and although they are not directly reflected in the grade itself, they are hard to separate completely from the overall experience of the route. In any case, it felt significantly harder than the 9b+ routes Iโ€™ve done before.

Based on my experience, thereโ€™s a part of me that feels it could be harder than 9c. Even breaking it down into sections and using tools like Darth Grader, the results point towards 9c+. But I donโ€™t really know what 9c+ feels like. I donโ€™t even have a clear idea of what 9c/+ would feel like. So I donโ€™t think it would be reasonable to propose a grade like that.

For all these reasons, Iโ€™ve decided to propose 9c. I believe itโ€™s the most honest and logical option, as it reflects a clear step up from the hardest routes Iโ€™ve done so far.

Beyond the grade, what truly makes me happy is having achieved something like this. Now I am excited and looking forward to future repeats and to hearing what other climbers think about the grade.
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Michaela Kiersch does Pungitopo (8c+)
Michaela Kiersch, who moved to Innsbruck in November, has made a trip to Arco and quickly done Pungitopo (8c+). It was bolted by Francesco Morandi and then Adam Ondra did the first ascent in 2022. Interestingly, everyone who has star rated it, has given it five stars.

The Doctor in Hand Therapy has climbed more than 20 routes from 8c+ to 9a+ and around 20 boulders between 8B and 8C, almost all in the last five years. At 31, her progression has been nothing short of meteoric. (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about the trip and the ascent?
I went to Arco for a quick weekend trip to enjoy some sunshine. Pungitopo is such a beautiful line so naturally it was on my list for years. Once I figured out my beta for the bouldery crux it went down in a few tries. The hardest move for me was the iron cross in the bottom, I think if my ape index was even 1 cm shorter I might not have been able to span it.

Dylan Chuat FAโ€™s Vรฉnรจr ร  Sion (9a)
Dylan Chuat, who last year sent four routes 9a+ or 9b, has done the first ascent of Vรฉnรจr ร  Sion (9a) in Sion. โ€First route in the 9th grade of the cliff! It starts with a classic 6b of the cliff until you reach this beautiful overhang. You begin with a few movements without using your feet, then 3-4 moves to reach a crux that really requires core strength, leading up to this last big move! I probably donโ€™t have the best methods, so I canโ€™t wait to see the next repeaters. The hard section is really cool and fun to climb.โ€ (c) Antoine Mesnage

Stefano Ghisolfi sends Dreamtime (8C)
Stefano Ghisolfi, who has climbed five 8C boulders and above in the past nine months, has now repeated Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. At 33, Ghisolfi has established himself as one of the worldโ€™s top route climbers over the past decade, with four 9b+ ascents to his name. On the competition circuit, he has claimed six World Cup titles, including the overall crown in 2021. (c) Sara Grippo

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried it once around 15 years ago but just out of curiosity, without any chance. I decided to try it again this year more seriously and went for the crimps beta after four sessions.

What is next and what about comps in 2026?
The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) and maybe Story of Three Worlds (8C+)! I'll compete in just a few selected comps in Europe, and in the Euro championship in Lead.

Beto Rocasolano FAโ€™s Parecero Igual Guerrero (9a/+)
Beto Rocasolano made the first ascent of Parcero Igual Guerrero (9a) in Margalef last month. Now 34, he climbed his first 9a at 26 and has since added 26 more routes up to 9a+, along with 18 boulders graded 8C and harder. (c) Mateus Haladaj

Can you tell us more about your FA?
I climbed it in February and itโ€™s a super nice route bolted by Angelo [Bernal Quintero] this summer. He told me Iโ€™m going to like it because itโ€™s quite bouldery, but for sure you also need endurance hehe.

The route starts from the same start as La Bongada, but the entry is tricky because the first move is hard and some people skip it. For me, to be honest, you need to do it to say you climbed the route. Itโ€™s similar to if you skip the first move in a boulder problem and say you climbed the complete line.

So the route is like an 8c route, then two moves of a 7c boulder on a bad undercling, and you have to be precise to take a bad pocket after big moves to reach the rest. After the rest there is another 7c boulder problem on pinches! So itโ€™s a super nice route! For sure itโ€™s going to be a classic for strong people because itโ€™s a super fun climb!

Some strong climbers tried it and think it might be 9a+, but for me Iโ€™m happy to do a FA in a world-class crag like Margalef in the 9th grade. Itโ€™s a goal for me, so Iโ€™m happy! ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š

What about the start and the potential of skipping the first move?
You need some rocks but not to much to reach the first holds but the people put more and more to skip the first move, jajajajaja.

Ramon [159 cm] did the first ascent of La Bongada (9a) that share the same start and you need to respect the FA. Originally it was four rocks but later people put more.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s added another monster to the list. After 240 days of projecting, the line finally went downโ€ฆ but no grade has been suggested yet. Do you think Jorge will go for 9c or even 9c+? (c) Javi Pec

โ€I still canโ€™t believe itโ€™s real! For years, everything revolved around this project. There were very difficult moments, but I never stopped dreaming that it was possible. I pushed my limits in every way. I obsessed over every tiny detail. I worked harder than I ever had before, trying to reach a level that once felt impossible.

After 240 days, everything aligned and my dream became real. A fight I will remember forever. Thank you to everyone who walked this long road with me. And thank you CC, for shaping me into the climber I am today ๐Ÿ™โ€

Graham Owens ticks Estado Critico (9a) and more
Graham Owens has spent the last month in Siurana where his highlights have been onsighting Cronica (8b) and redpointing Estado critico (9a) and Pati noso (8c+). โ€4th go. Flash pump of doom. 8c/+ maybe?โ€

Can you tell us more about Estado Critico and your injury background?
In Summer 2025 I was feeling stronger and fitter than ever, with lots of big goals for the year ahead. Namely, I knew I planned to take a semester off from school in the spring, and had tons of hard boulders and routes in mind. In July though, I had a freak accident where I decked sport climbing and fractured my ankle in several places. I needed surgery, couldnโ€™t walk for over a month, or fit on my climbing shoe for another month or two thereafter. Once mostly recovered, I started training hard again, but promptly developed an overuse pulley injury. It turned out to stick around for much longer than expected, and when I still couldnโ€™t crimp hard in January, I considered canceling all of my plans and going back to school. Fortunately, friends and family helped me stay sane, and I decided to go for it.

Once I got to Spain in February with my finger starting to feel better, Estado caught my eye immediately. Itโ€™s an incredible line that I had seen videos of for many years, and lots of other cool and strong people were trying it. At first my fitness was still lacking after so long without training hard, so I couldnโ€™t try it more than once a day and focused on making links. Slowly I started to feel more confident though and pushed through the bottom boulder, then fell off the last few moves a couple of times, and then sent! Full disclosure, I used the new left kneebar on the headwall which allows for a brief, intense shakeout before the last few moves. Itโ€™s far from full recovery and replaces another optional rest a few moves prior, so I personally doubt it changes the grade. Those with freak endurance might find the route easy regardless, but that definitely wasnโ€™t me, haha.

What is next?
We have two more weeks in Spain and I think weโ€™ll spend them in Margalef. After that hopefully I can hit St Leger and Arco too. Lots of other hard routes in mind! Trying to take advantage before Iโ€™m stuck in school again ๐Ÿ˜‚

Returning in May once my visa runs out, not sure from where. School is my main focus alongside climbing; I study International Relations at UPenn and am hoping to attend law school.

Davide Zane ticks The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C)
Davide Zane, with three 8B+โ€™ under his belt, has repeated Dave Grahamโ€™s classic The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and say something about your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 8 years old, in Arco. I began with competitions and managed to become part of the Italian national team. However, after many competitions, I became more passionate about outdoor climbing.

Three years ago, I started outdoor bouldering and immediately liked it more than competitions, so I continued. Now Iโ€™m a routesetter and instructor, but I would like to become a full-time outdoor athlete. Iโ€™m 20 years old and, unfortunately, for now I have to work to support myself because I donโ€™t have the financial means to do so without support.

In December, I sent The Stand (The Dagger) in 40 minutes, but it wasnโ€™t my main goal to make a story. I was there to try Dreamtime, but it was too hot, so I focused on Story instead, and after three sessions I sent it.

Connor Herson repeated Pete Whittakerโ€™s Crown Royale (9a) in Jรธssingfjord last summer, keeping the ascent under wraps until the video release. The 22-year-old needed just four attempts to send the 100-meter crack, assigning it a personal grade of 8c+. With a tick list that includes a handful of other trad climbs from 8c to 9a+, the American boasts one of the most impressive trad rรฉsumรฉ in the world. Herson first made headlines in 2018 by climbing an 8c+ on just his second attempt at age 14. That same year, he also repeated The Nose (8b+ MP) and placed 11th at the Youth World Championship.

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