NEWS

Michaela Kiersch does Quintessential (8B) and flashes The Hatchling (8A)
Michaela Kiersch has had a great start of her trip to Rocklands flashing Caroline (7C+) and Black Mango Chutney (7C+). She followed up those flashes with quick ticks of Dirty Epic (8A), Barracuda (8A) and Quintessential (8B) and, just yesterday, she flashed The Hatchling (8A). "Absolute stunner! And arguably the most iconic climb in Rocklands... I watched a few beta videos but really I just had fun and knew the climb would suit me! Crimps and heel hooks are my love language." (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about the 8B ascent?
This boulder is super in my style and I was glad to do it quickly! Even did it twice, once with a headlamp for the slab top out and once for a better video.

Did you send it during your first session?
The first session was only 20 minutes before a huge rain came and this session was another 15 minutes.

Jules Marchaland repeated Chris Sharmaโ€™s iconic Three Degrees of Separation (9a+) in June. โ€Crazy route, maybe the best I have ever climbed. Took me 6 days and I fell two times at the last dynoโ€ฆ"

How hard is the start of the route and how hard are the dynos?
I think the first part is like a soft 8c+ , but it depends on your [preferred] style of climbing. After that (for me) the first dyno (with the fews moves before) is around a 7C+ boulder, and then the two next dynos (also with the few moves before) are around 7B boulders. I felt good on the dynos. I flashed the 2nd and 3rd one and did the first and hard one 2nd go. This route is just crazy, so fun to try.

Jennifer Eucharia Buckley, who placed second at the Innsbruck World Cup two weeks ago, won the Dornbrin Youth European Cup by winning the qualification and then being the only climber in her category to top the final route. Also, Pierre Marzullo and Andrea Chelleris won both the qualification and the final in their catagories.

05: Felix Mader AUT - Lana Bonnal FRA
07: Pierre Marzullo FRA - Jennifer Eucharia Buckley SLO
09: Andrea Chelleris ITA - Isabella Rinaldi GBR
Complete results

Allizee Dufraisse does Reve de faire (8A+/B)
Allizee Dufraisse has sent Reve de faire (8A+/B) in Sustenpass. โ€œI started trying the boulder last year. I was motivated because I like Sustenpass and also because it has a lower 8B+ start, which is my goal in bouldering :) I did it on my third session this year and directly started working on the lower start.โ€

Have you had any progress on your long time project, La Rambla (9a+), this spring?
I am finishing my PhD, so I am writing my thesis. This is hard work every day I am very focused which makes it difficult to project routes. I can only focus like five minutes which makes bouldering fit better. I spent some time at my flat in Spain this winter but only climbed on other routes. Until I finish my thesis this winter, I will only focus on bouldering.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has published a video from his send of Muerte por asfixia (8C+) last month.

In March, the Vertical-Life Climb to Paris Challenge powered by Mammut got underway, kicking off the world's longest multi-pitch climb spanning from Tokyo to the Olympic Games in Paris. We now find ourselves in the final sprint of this journey! In just a few days, we will reach Paris, a few weeks ahead of the best competitive climbers in the world arriving to compete for medals.

At each milestone along the route, prizes have been raffled, and once we reach our final destination, an exclusive climbing day with Adam Ondra will be awarded to one lucky Vertical-Life Premium subscribers.

This is your last chance to join the challenge and participate in the prize raffle.

To all Premium subscribers: Join the challenge, climb the final meters with us, and seize the chance to get out cragging with Adam Ondra. Donโ€™t let it slip!

How to participate:

  • Log into your Vertical-Life account or create one for free
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  • Join the raffle on 8a.nu/climb-to-paris

Aidan Roberts proposes 9A for Arrival of Birds
Aidan Roberts, who has already completed two previous 9A's, climbed Arrival of Birds in Chironico this spring. On an Instagram post yesterday, he decided to suggest 9a for this line as well. (c) Sam Pratt

"Acknowledging how well it suits me, I suspect this could be a pretty solid 9A, though aware that these boundaries are far from being well understood well and certainly not by myself. Grades, in all their inconsistencies, feel they ought refer to a feature of a boulder and not the climber so I hope that future ascentionists will help to offer their honest opinions."

Pepa ล indel, 16, completes Hades (9a)
Pepa ล indel, who did a 9a+ two years ago, has ticked Hades (9a) in Gรถtterwandl. (c) Felixtsam

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Hades 9a is a 20m endurance line in Nassereith, Austria, right in the middle of the Gรถtenwandl overhang. It consists of a lighter intro, 3 hard boulders and a tricky finish on small crimps. The main difficulties lie in the fact that there is no good rest between boulders and any small mistake will cause a lack of power in the last moves. Instagram videos of the hardest sequences.

I tried Hades for the first time in the summer of 2023 and after a few tries I started throwing sharp attempts. Unfortunately, I failed. So we returned to it during the autumn holidays. I was very close, but just felt short... So the plan for this holiday was clear - to finish it. And after a good rest and when the conditions improved, the climb was successful! Wow this one gave me a hard time ๐Ÿ˜…. So far my hardest 9a.

What is coming up next?
We are in Frankenjura, where the plan is to send Modified 9a+ and if everything works out, we will end our summer trip in Cรฉรผse.

Kacper Kusion, 18, ticks Let the Right One In (8B+)
Kacper Kusion has sent Let the Right One In (8B+) at Lincoln Lake and here is the video. โ€œI saw this line for the first time back in 2022 and got immediately inspired by it and thought of it as my absolute dream line that maybe one day I will be able to try. Two years later decided to give it a try and on the first session did all the intro moves. Came back a day later, set up a rope to try the top moves and later that day everything came together and Sent!โ€

Can you tell us about your climbing background?
I was born in Poland and thatโ€™s where I started climbing at the age of 4 years old. Climbing very quickly became my main focus and the only thing I wanted to do. With years going by and me getting better my dad signed me up to a climbing club โ€œKS Korona Krakowโ€ where I met my coach Maciek Oczko. The climbing gym with the club were three hours away from my home which made it a little bit difficult to attend often, but we would drive up once or twice a week because there werenโ€™t many good climbing gyms in the area and Maciek was a very supportive and beneficial coach, which later on turned into a close friend.

At the age of 11 years old I traveled with my dad to Boulder Colorado for three months to see how the climbing is. It was an absolute shock and climbing paradise. A year later we decided to move from Poland to Colorado, which opened up a lot more opportunities for my climbing. Once we got to Colorado my climbing became a big priority and my main focus. After a couple of years with competing in youth comps and really focusing on gym climbing and competing I wasnโ€™t climbing nearly as much as I wanted to outdoors, and it was a huge missing puzzle for me. At the age of 15 I closely started working with Matt Fultz and the focus started to shift towards outdoor bouldering. After a few years of training with Matt I sent my first 8B last year.

Enrique Beltrรกn Blasco does Ali Hulk sit start extension total, calling it 9a
Enrique Beltrรกn Blasco has sent Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9a+) in Rodellar, logged it as a 9a. The Spaniard projected it for more than 20 sessions, including making an ascent of the 9a stand start last year. The sit start send took him roughly 20 minutes and involved ten no-hands rests. (c) Dani Moreno, his trainer who, previously, also has suggested 9a for it.

Originally Dani Andrada did the FA of Ali Hulk sit start extension back in 2007, calling it 9b without using kneepads. Then Jonathan Flor added some 15 moves and "total" to the original name, keeping the grade. In total, the hybrid boulder route has over 100 moves out of which you do half of them before you tie in.

"I can not imagine how hard it was to send it like Andrada without kneepads. I stayed two minutes resting in the boulder part where he must have fought โ€œa muerteโ€ and I have no hands rest in all clips. Total respect for Dani for all his FAs."

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This route is a very important step in my climbing career. This full line motivated me so much because you start at the bottom left in the cave and finish climbing out of the cave all the way to the right.

What was the key for the send?
Trust myself and climb with the heart and not with the mind, without thinking strategy, etc. Focus only on the flow on the wall.

Why is the 9a stand start no longer in your logbook?
Because I deleted it yesterday. For me [there is] only one line and one chain. The sit start is like two moves 7b, the rest you do with knee pads. It is a lower start but the same grade I think.