1. Colin Duffy USA 42+ : Ai Mori JPN Top
2. Sam Avezou FRA 41+ : Jessica Pilz AUT Top
3. Toby Roberts GBR 39 : Mei Kotake JPN 44+
Complete results.

Colin Duffy was #20 in the qualification and then #7 in the semifinal before climbing highest of all in the final. Ai Mori, on the other hand, won the first two rounds and by topping out the final route, she won on countback over Jessica Pilz.

Duffy comments, “It feels amazing to get my second Lead World Cup gold. It’s been an incredible journey these past few years doing the World Cup circuit and finding another special moment on the wall. In qualification I didn’t feel the greatest on the wall, but I put that out of my mind and have a good climb in the final. And the crowd here is incredible. It’s a perfect way to cap off my last competition before the Olympics. I’ve been training hard all year and to see I’m in the form I want to be is phenomenal and I’m going to stay here in France and train before Paris and I want to show my best there.”

Mori comments, “I thought that Jessica maybe got a top so I was a very nervous, but I looked out and saw the big crowd, and that big crowd pushed my performance. When I got the top I was very happy. I’ll go back to Japan now and then it’s straight to the Olympics, and I’ll do my best there.”

Many of the top climbers like Sorato Anraku, Jakob Schubert, Alex Megos, Janja Garnbret and Chaehyun Seo did not participate.

Michaela Kiersch has had a great start of her trip to Rocklands flashing Caroline (7C+) and Black Mango Chutney (7C+). She followed up those flashes with quick ticks of Dirty Epic (8A), Barracuda (8A) and Quintessential (8B) and, just yesterday, she flashed The Hatchling (8A). "Absolute stunner! And arguably the most iconic climb in Rocklands... I watched a few beta videos but really I just had fun and knew the climb would suit me! Crimps and heel hooks are my love language." (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about the 8B ascent?
This boulder is super in my style and I was glad to do it quickly! Even did it twice, once with a headlamp for the slab top out and once for a better video.

Did you send it during your first session?
The first session was only 20 minutes before a huge rain came and this session was another 15 minutes.

Jules Marchaland repeated Chris Sharma’s iconic Three Degrees of Separation (9a+) in June. ”Crazy route, maybe the best I have ever climbed. Took me 6 days and I fell two times at the last dyno…"

How hard is the start of the route and how hard are the dynos?
I think the first part is like a soft 8c+ , but it depends on your [preferred] style of climbing. After that (for me) the first dyno (with the fews moves before) is around a 7C+ boulder, and then the two next dynos (also with the few moves before) are around 7B boulders. I felt good on the dynos. I flashed the 2nd and 3rd one and did the first and hard one 2nd go. This route is just crazy, so fun to try.

Jennifer Eucharia Buckley, who placed second at the Innsbruck World Cup two weeks ago, won the Dornbrin Youth European Cup by winning the qualification and then being the only climber in her category to top the final route. Also, Pierre Marzullo and Andrea Chelleris won both the qualification and the final in their catagories.

05: Felix Mader AUT - Lana Bonnal FRA
07: Pierre Marzullo FRA - Jennifer Eucharia Buckley SLO
09: Andrea Chelleris ITA - Isabella Rinaldi GBR
Complete results

Allizee Dufraisse has sent Reve de faire (8A+/B) in Sustenpass. “I started trying the boulder last year. I was motivated because I like Sustenpass and also because it has a lower 8B+ start, which is my goal in bouldering :) I did it on my third session this year and directly started working on the lower start.”

Have you had any progress on your long time project, La Rambla (9a+), this spring?
I am finishing my PhD, so I am writing my thesis. This is hard work every day I am very focused which makes it difficult to project routes. I can only focus like five minutes which makes bouldering fit better. I spent some time at my flat in Spain this winter but only climbed on other routes. Until I finish my thesis this winter, I will only focus on bouldering.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has published a video from his send of Muerte por asfixia (8C+) last month.

In March, the Vertical-Life Climb to Paris Challenge powered by Mammut got underway, kicking off the world's longest multi-pitch climb spanning from Tokyo to the Olympic Games in Paris. We now find ourselves in the final sprint of this journey! In just a few days, we will reach Paris, a few weeks ahead of the best competitive climbers in the world arriving to compete for medals.

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How to participate:

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Aidan Roberts, who has already completed two previous 9A's, climbed Arrival of Birds in Chironico this spring. On an Instagram post yesterday, he decided to suggest 9a for this line as well. (c) Sam Pratt

"Acknowledging how well it suits me, I suspect this could be a pretty solid 9A, though aware that these boundaries are far from being well understood well and certainly not by myself. Grades, in all their inconsistencies, feel they ought refer to a feature of a boulder and not the climber so I hope that future ascentionists will help to offer their honest opinions."

Pepa Šindel, who did a 9a+ two years ago, has ticked Hades (9a) in Götterwandl. (c) Felixtsam

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Hades 9a is a 20m endurance line in Nassereith, Austria, right in the middle of the Götenwandl overhang. It consists of a lighter intro, 3 hard boulders and a tricky finish on small crimps. The main difficulties lie in the fact that there is no good rest between boulders and any small mistake will cause a lack of power in the last moves. Instagram videos of the hardest sequences.

I tried Hades for the first time in the summer of 2023 and after a few tries I started throwing sharp attempts. Unfortunately, I failed. So we returned to it during the autumn holidays. I was very close, but just felt short... So the plan for this holiday was clear - to finish it. And after a good rest and when the conditions improved, the climb was successful! Wow this one gave me a hard time 😅. So far my hardest 9a.

What is coming up next?
We are in Frankenjura, where the plan is to send Modified 9a+ and if everything works out, we will end our summer trip in Céüse.

Kacper Kusion has sent Let the Right One In (8B+) at Lincoln Lake and here is the video. “I saw this line for the first time back in 2022 and got immediately inspired by it and thought of it as my absolute dream line that maybe one day I will be able to try. Two years later decided to give it a try and on the first session did all the intro moves. Came back a day later, set up a rope to try the top moves and later that day everything came together and Sent!”

Can you tell us about your climbing background?
I was born in Poland and that’s where I started climbing at the age of 4 years old. Climbing very quickly became my main focus and the only thing I wanted to do. With years going by and me getting better my dad signed me up to a climbing club “KS Korona Krakow” where I met my coach Maciek Oczko. The climbing gym with the club were three hours away from my home which made it a little bit difficult to attend often, but we would drive up once or twice a week because there weren’t many good climbing gyms in the area and Maciek was a very supportive and beneficial coach, which later on turned into a close friend.

At the age of 11 years old I traveled with my dad to Boulder Colorado for three months to see how the climbing is. It was an absolute shock and climbing paradise. A year later we decided to move from Poland to Colorado, which opened up a lot more opportunities for my climbing. Once we got to Colorado my climbing became a big priority and my main focus. After a couple of years with competing in youth comps and really focusing on gym climbing and competing I wasn’t climbing nearly as much as I wanted to outdoors, and it was a huge missing puzzle for me. At the age of 15 I closely started working with Matt Fultz and the focus started to shift towards outdoor bouldering. After a few years of training with Matt I sent my first 8B last year.