Three weeks ago, we started to report some amazing sends by Michaela Kirsch in Rocklands. In the presented pictures it was clear that she was not using her left pinky and she told us the reason was that it was broken. Only two weeks before the trip she fell during trail running and had it dislocated and fractured. A few days later she got three screws surgically fixed into her pinky. Despite this, she sent 15 boulders 8A to 8B+ during 13 climbing days during her month long trip.

How much could you use the pinky?
As the weeks went on I was able to start incorporating it more (extremely carefully). It was mostly about being able to have the finger on holds so that the wrist wasn’t in an awkward or weaker position. I didn’t fully use it at all on the trip.

"My world turned completely upside down as I navigated my first major injury/broken bone, deciding whether or not I should cancel my trip, and ultimately trying to come to terms with adjusting my goals after feeling in the best shape of my life and working so hard. It was a total rollercoaster as I truly cycled through the stages of emotions and being so scared of surgery.

As many of you know, I am a hand therapist so this was the ultimate intersection of my life. As an OT, I knew that I needed to prioritize healing. As a climber, I was already in the gym moving my remaining digits and big muscles the next day. My surgeon cleared me to weight-bear at 6 weeks, which means climbing the whole trip in a 3 finger drag — we compromised on testing at 3 weeks because I promised to use my best clinical judgement based on the symptoms 😉

When I arrived in ZA my stitches had just come out so I had an open incision, a lot of pain and swelling, and I couldn’t even use my hand to wash my hair. I was scared to move pads, chalk up, and spot. I was scared to climb.

For better and for worse, we experienced nearly 2 weeks of rain over the month, climbing 13 days out of 30. For my finger, it was probably ideal to have forced rest. I made some conscious and crucial mindset shifts over the last 6 weeks that enabled me to come away with one of my most successful and fun climbing experiences ever. Most of all, I’m extremely proud of myself and my little pinky."

Alexandra Miroslaw from Poland, who set two world records [6.21 and 6.06] during the first two rounds, won the gold in Speed in Paris. In the semifinal, she ran the 15-meter wall in 6.19 beating Alexandra Kalucka from Poland with 0.15 seconds. In the final, she got 6.10 winning over 6.18 by Deng Lijuan from China. Complete results

Vojta Trojan, with eleven 9a’s under his belt, has completed La moustache qui fâche (9a+) in Entraygues.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 9a+?
The route is pure power endurance with just a few places to shake. You basically start and never stop until the anchor. There’re some cruxy sequences, but overall it’s quite consistent eventho the last few meters are slightly easier. In total there is around 40 moves.

I still managed to fall in the last “easy part” 3 times. Somehow it’s not so easy after the whole route haha! I’ve been trying the route already last summer and felt quite close to send. This year I felt the same, but still I couldn’t succeed. In the end I felt I wouldn’t do it even this year. On the last day of 3 weeks trip and on the last try I managed to send the route. It’s crazy how the pressure helps sometimes. In total it took me something around 25 days to finish this route, but honestly I stopped counting a long time ago :D

I’ve been chasing this grade for a long time and it’s huge relief to know that I got what it takes. There’s been a lot of ups and downs, lots of doubts and failures. But yeah.. in the end I managed to send an amazing route in amazing place and I experienced so much and that’s what matters!

Also Huge shoutout to my friend Jáchym Cink who sent the route just few days before me! I would like to thanks to my sponsors and all the people who supported me on the journey and shared the process with me. Jáchym and Adrian for syke and betas in the route. And most of all to my girlfriend Lucie for believing in me and her endless support! Without you it wouldn’t be possible!

Samuel Watson sets a new Speed World Record in the seeding round with 4.75.

All four problems were topped in the Boulder final in Paris creating a great dramatic show. Sorato Anraku got 69.3 points and the lowest scorer were Alberto Gines Lopez and Adam Ondra with 24.1 points. In other words, anything can happen, at least for the medals, and Anraku is the big favourite for the gold.

Eva Hammelmüller has onsighted Le sommelier (8a+) and redpointed her fourth 8c during the last two weeks, Produit de la saume (8c), all in the Briançon region. ”Physical power endurance line (20 moves) on quite bad holds, far moves and delicate heel hooks. Really cool line which optically stands a bit in the shade of the other 8c’s, but feels just as good to climb!" (c) Felix Mast

Can you tell us more about the onsight and how close you were to fall?
I was saving this 8a+ for an onsight for a few days, but somehow I always felt too tired after some attemps in harder routes to give it a try. Yesterday, I decided to give it a go even though I had already done quite some routes before. I was lucky to get nearly all sequences right and could fight my way up!

In the first crux, I could not find good footholds for one move, so I decided to jump for the next hold. I didn‘t hit it perfectly, and it was everything but a jug, so that was pretty close😅

Alexandra Miroslaw from Poland lowered her Speed World Record first to 6.21 and then to 6.06 during the first rounds. Complete results and more comments in an IFSC article. ”Nine personal bests. Four continental records. Olympic record broken four times. World record broken twice.”

It took almost 90 minutes until we saw a top in the Boulder semifinal in Paris. In total, there were only seven tops, out of which, four were on the final slab problem. Sorato Anraku was the only one making two tops including a flash on the second problem which no other topped. The wildest celebration was done by Adam Ondra creating a special moment for the 7 000 spectators. As there were so few tops at the same time almost all high ranked athletes made the second 10 point zone on most of the four boulders, all the Top-8 final spots are still very open. Complete results.

Monday, 5 August (UTC+2:00): 10:00 – Men's semifinal Boulder: Results
Tuesday, 6 August: 10:00 – Women's semifinal Boulder
Wednesday, 7 August: 10:00 – Men's semifinal Lead
Thursday, 8 August: 10:00 – Women's semifinal Lead

Friday, 9 August: 10:15 – Men's final Boulder & 12.35 Lead
Saturday, 10 August: 10:15 – Women's final Boulder & 12:35 Lead

Sorato Anraku is the big favorite to win with 40 % of the votes in the Vertical-Life prediction. Complete Schedule including Speed. IFSC has published a conversation with Brooke Raboutou and there are many more interesting articles on IFSC, like a presentation of all Boulder & Lead athletes (from page 34).

Gonzalo Larrocha has repeated Adam Ondra’s Valhalla (9a) in Flatanger. In total the 39-year-old has now done 35 routes 9a or beyond. (c) Adri Martínez

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I have been trying the route during two weeks. The main problem for me was handjam in the second pitch. It was stressfull to get there and slip or the jam or the feet. But finally every things works well. The picture is by the anchor after 50' of climbing during the send.