All the climbers who made the podium timed out, but Jessica Pilz reached two, and three, holds higher than Ai Mori and Annie Sanders, respectively. Pilz needed to finish at least second in Seoul to secure the overall title ahead of Janja Garnbret, who had won all three events she participated in during 2024.

“It was quite a long route so I knew I had to be fast. It was kind of part of the game on this route. I really didn’t expect it. I think it’s only my third World Cup gold medal so I’m quite happy, and what an end to the season.”

Last year, Sorato Anraku claimed victory in both Lead and Boulder at the overall World Cup. Three days ago, he secured the Boulder title once again, and today, he triumphed in the Lead event in Seoul, edging out Lee Dohyun on countback from the semifinal. Team Japan dominated, with nine climbers finishing in the Top 12.

”I’m just happy to get a gold medal this year, finally. This competition Toby [Roberts] didn’t compete, so I am happy now, but I have to train more for next year. I want to beat Toby. His concentration is so high.”

Sera Gearhart, who just the last year has sent 18 boulders 8A and beyond, has done Lone Wolf (8A+) in Burnside Lake. In the VL ranking game, the 27-year-old is #2 after Caroline Sinno.

”It’s a link up near Tahoe! I did the 8A when I lived here a few years ago. I’m in town for a day and thought I could do the 12 [8A+] since it’s a power endurance line.”

Elisa Lauretano has completed Black Mamba (8B) in Rifugio Barbara - Lowrie. This was the first 8B for the 24-year-old Italian who earlier in 2024, has sent eight boulders 8A or 8A+.

"I discovered this line last summer, and after fantasizing about it all winter, I started seriously trying it in mid-August. It seemed crazy, but I really wanted to try something at my limit that I could put my heart and soul into. I started taking all my pads to the block so I could try it on my own, at my own pace, and find all my methods. Every day I discovered a new feeling, a new turn of the foot, improved small sections. Meanwhile, the hunger to try it was growing.

On a Saturday with excellent conditions, I found myself for the first time under the block, with my friends who were there to support me. I was still far from feeling that it was possible. I started to try it and to my astonishment, I fell in the last moves. At that moment I realized it was really possible! I was thrilled! Then, after a week of tension and a snowfall to complicate everything, the day arrived. I started to warm up and felt light. The conditions were bad, it was drizzling, but I didn't care: I was going to climb the block!"

Andrea Chelleris has been on a trip to Saint Léger focusing on onsight. During three climbing days, the 15-year-old onsighted eight routes 7c+ and beyond including Abregenief (8b). Three years ago, he onsighted his first 8a+ as well as redpointed an 8c+/9a. In the last season, he won the Italian Championships in Slalom, Lead and Boulder.

Which were your most memorable onsights and did you come close on other harder routes?
I think the best onsights were Abregenief and Le placard (8a+) because these were the most classic but I enjoyed a lot all the other onsight in La baleine. I came close to onsight Collection automne hiver (8b+) and also Le mur des cyclopes (8b).

How long do you observe to find the best beta?
When I onsight I do a long observation, possibly more than 20 minutes, to find out the best beta but sometimes I miss some holds like on le mur de Cyclopes. This trip I became better at it but in some situations, I still changed the beta because the way I planned to make the move was impossible.

What are your autumn and winter (skiing) plans?
From this year, I decided not to ski anymore and focus on climbing and competitions. It was too hard to do both and I wasn’t enjoying that at all because in ski and also climbing I was really bad at first comp because I didn’t have time to get into shape. I chose the sport that I liked most.

From the fifteen of October I will be in Villanueva del Rosario and there I would like to try La Planta de Shiva (9b) and some other hard routes but anyway I will climb onsight as well. Maybe, I will also make a quick stop to Margalef.

How much and where do you train?
I train 6 days a week mainly at Climbing Ranch. To train comp boulders I go to other nice gyms in Slovenia or Austria.

What about school?
This is the third year of homeschooling for me and I study from home. My mum helps me with this.

Team Japan has dominated the men's Boulder World Cups for about a decade, and in 2024, they were more dominant than ever, securing all four top positions.

1. Sorato Anraku JPN 3 365
2. Meichi Narasaki JPN 2 860
3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2 690
4. Sohta Amagasa JPN 2 416
5. Toby Roberts GBR 2 365
6. Lee Dohyun KOR 2 280
Complete rankings

It is worth noting that Roberts did not participate in the last event, while Dohyun, who won the previous two competitions, only competed in three events.

Natalia Grossman has made history by becoming the first to win the IFSC Boulder series four years in a row.

1. Natalia Grossman USA 2 610
2. Oceania Mackenzie AUS 2 405
3. Nakamura Mao JPN 2 262
4. Annie Sanders USA 2 105
5. Janja Garnbret SLO 2 000
Complete rankings

Notably, Natalia competed in only three of the five events, while Janja participated in just two. Since 2021, Garnbret has competed in eight Boulder World Cups, winning six and earning silver twice. In the ten Boulder World Cups and Championships where Grossman and Garnbret have faced each other, Garnbret has claimed victory nine times.

Ludivine Balbi has sent Amadeus (8c) in Grotte de Sabart, uncut video. The 15-year-old did her first 8b at age 12.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I started climbing very early thanks to my parents who took me to the crag since I was young (I took my first steps in the Finestra sector in Margalef!!! 😊). When I was 8 years old, I discovered competition by chance thanks to my instructor at the time Mathieu (Gallo-Lavallee also called Mr. MA.GA.LA). I quickly managed to rank well on the local and regional circuit.

In the summer of 2021, at the U-14 French Championships I was number two. In 2022 at the French Difficulty Championship in Le Pouzin I won the title of French Champion and this gave me access to the French Team and to international competitions.

Today I share my passion for climbing between the cliff and competition. I have the chance to travel to the major spots in France, Spain, and Italy. I have already done some 8b in climbing trips and I wanted to try a harder project close to home. That's why I chose Amadeus. I am so happy to have done it in 10 days and about 25 attempts and especially before my 16th birthday (at the end of October). I wanted to thank the Block Out Toulouse club for their support and especially my coach Guillaume Mauss for his kindness and cheerfulness.

Lee Dohyun, who won in Prague last month, got the Boulder World Cup gold also in Seoul.

”I thought if Max got the top in three he would win the gold so when he got it he had won. I thought congratulations, but then my team and coaches said it was me who had won. I couldn’t understand it. I’m just really happy to win in front of my home crowd, it means a lot. It was a hard final round. All the boulders were hard for me. Very powerful and tricky moves. Very hard.”

The fifth and last Boulder World Cup took place in Seoul in Korea. 17-year-old Annie Sanders, who got her first two bronzes in the last Boulder as well Lead World cup won.

” I’m definitely still in shock right now. I wasn’t expecting this. After the second boulder I almost kind of gave up hope as a lot of people were topping that one so I was just trying to have fun for the rest of the round, and it paid off.”