Dave Graham reports on Instagram that he has made the first repeat of Daniel Woods's Spray of Light 8C in Rocklands. (c) Beau Kahler SUPER SYKED!!! Finally managed to make the 2nd ascent of @dawoods89 new power test-piece Spray of Light [8c] after struggling HARD with the heat and humidity we have been dealing with over the last month!!! Every session I grew fonder of the moves and the actual climbing, and the urge to link the whole sequence began to be overwhelming, but with the uncooperative heat wave it was starting to seem like a dream, something only in my mind, not an actual real event that could exist in this time and space. Climbing is such an amazing game of belief, concentration, and execution, and I feel really lucky my life revolves around this game, it teaches one so much about life in general.

Kairn reports Seb Bouin has done the first ascent of "A muerte bilou" 9a in Ramirole cave, Verdon Gorge, France. The route, around 50 meters, is very steep : 60° overhang, with a boulder problem at the beginning followed by a knee-bar rest then a 30 meters resistance 8c. It takes him around 3 weeks of effort. A week ago he was close to send "Thors hammer" 9a+ in Flatanger before leaving but no cigar. Seb is by far the most active French climber in the rock climbing business. Photo : Pierre Délas

The semifinal boulder problems were great with almost the perfect difficulty level. The strangest thing, though, was that several youngsters brought their mobiles and were looking at them often without anybody saying anything. They could in fact have been watching the live streaming. Remember that Jakob Schubert was disqualified for checking the time once in a Lead World Cup some years ago.

Loic Zehani, who previously did three 8c's, has done the first repeat of his father's route, Crépuscule in Orgon, giving it a personal grade of 8c+. Cristophe gives us some further info. "The route begins with a boulder section (about 7C): CUPRESSUS BLUES" 8b+, very hard for the fingers with small pockets and without feet) which is linked to the hardest part of L'ARLESIENNE 8b+, without any rest. It is a good stamina test piece with 42 movements and it took hime some 40 tries."

Jakob Schubert reports on Facebook, "THORS HAMMER"! Got the 3rd ascent of this amazing 9a+ in the Flatanger cave today! 60m of super steep climbing with some big rests took quite some energy and after struggling with some wet holds I'm very excited I could top out this magestic line. © Elias Holzknecht/ WOODSLAVE productions

The Youth World Championship in Arco will start on Friday the 28th with Bouldering and then it will continue with Lead and Speed for eight more days. In total, 1 167 starts will be done in the three disciplines so we are talking about the world's biggest climbing competition ever. The event will be run in WC format meaning that in Bouldering some juniors will be sitting in the isolation for at least seven hours. "No food or drinks will be provided." At least ten of the youngsters competing have been standing on the podium on a World Cup and beside that, the best female rock climber of last two years, Ashima Shiraishi will make her debut on the international scene.

jose luis palao has done his third 9a during the last year, Seta Total in Cuenca. "It is a route equipped by me and Luis Alfonso Felix which I tried a little last year and this year I got five days chaining attempts. First ascent by Pablo Barbero." (c) Javi Pec

"BÄÄÄM!!! First repeat of "Thors Hammer" 9a+ in the Flatanger Cave is done! Felt harder then the other routes I've done in that grade. Took me 3 days to link the over 60m pitch which is always between 55 and 85 degrees steep! 38min climbing time... felt like a 10k run! Thanks Raimund Matros for the pic!" It was mainly bolted by Magnus Midtbö but Adam Ondra made the FA in 2012 and there is actually a possibility to make an extension. Also Jakob Schubert is trying it and Daniel Woods and Ethan Pringle are up in the big cave, too.