13 January 2016

9a (+) by Alban Levier without a rope

Fanatic climbing reports that Alban Levier has made the FA of La Force giving the 30-mover a 9a although he did not use a rope. It is a direct and slightly harder version of an 8C he repeated before Christmas. It should be noted that some think 8C converts rather to 9a+ and bear in mind that it must be considered a hard 8C. Last year, the 21-year-old won one Boulder World Cup.
Alban Levier, ici proche, libรจre "la Force" 9a au toรฎt d'Orsay !

Orsay roof (Paris surburb), again ! Alban Levier (french bouldering team) opens a new harder variation of the integrality of the roof with ยซ La force ยป 9a ! After having sent the 3rd ascent of integrality of ยซ Quoi de neuf ยป (around 8C) just before Christmas, Alban didnย’t take any rest ! He was working the integrality of his variation ย“Verticalย’Artย” 8B+. This direct exit variation is harder because you are doing ย“Morpheusย” hard 7C boulder at the end instead of finishing with the classical final part or the roof (7B by the lip). 3 sessions work after, Alban opens this afternoon ย“La forceย” and proposes the route-grade of 9a for the difficulty of this challenge of 30 moves. The name of this new game is of course dedicated to regretted Rรฉmy Bergasse. Check the video-live of Alban running in the roof and very close to send last week-end !

Posted by Fanatic Climbing on Wednesday, January 13, 2016
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