30 June 2018

8c onsight by Piotr Schab?

Piotr Schab has added an onsight of Punch on ire 8c in Cuenca to his scorecard with an interesting ethical comment. "Done the route, but the foothold broke moments before clipping the chain." Climbing is an interesting sport with no referees where we the community has developed the ethics and rules. There is often no black or white and instead there are often different shades of grey. 8a has published some practice and ethics based on a traffic light green-yellow-red system. I think Piotr's ascent is valid and support him for being open so everyone can have their own opinion. Sometimes the anchor is placed too high creating an unnatural crux of a route. In such case, you can gladly tick the route even if you could not clip the anchor but you should consider giving it a lower grade.
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