12 March 2018
8C FA by Clรฉment Lechaptois
Clรฉment Lechaptois, who the last two weeks has done a Font 8B+ as well as being #5 in the French Nationas, has done his first 8C by Malรฉdiction assis in Rioupรฉroux.
"Finally!!! What a battle... It took me ~15 sessions after that I did the (8B) stand-start in 2016! The line is complete now... The sit adds only 4 moves to the stand start but it's enough for it becomes a way harder! We'll see what the next repetitors say about the grade. Soooo happy to finally have finished it off!
I didn't do a specific training for that boulder. But I train regularly to progress in climbing in general. I am passionated about rock climbing for years... I always try to improve my weaknesses."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ