8c/+ FA onsight and two 9a’s by Adam Ondra

Friday, 17 July

Adam Ondra has visited Schleier Wassefalle in Austria and done the FA of Warm Dusche onsight. "8c/c+ to me. A linkup - You climb Eiszeit 8c+/9a below the final crux and then move to the right into Black Pearl. For the grade - you climb most of Fight Club (8c, but maybe a little soft one), rest, hard section, rest, and final topout in Black Pearl. Adds probably a lot into Fight Club, but probably much easier than Eiszeit. INCREDIBLE fight on my onsight."

In Schleier he also did Orca 9a. "It is an Alex Huber FA back from 2001 that was not repeated. I tried it back in 2009 and could the crux moves even as a single move, but then I made the FA of "harder" (longer) exit to the right which was another project by Alex calling it Fugu 9a. Orca still remained mystery for me. In 2017 I finally unlocked a new sequence to the left but could not do it that day. Today I did it in 3 tries. Really hard to grade, but despite it is much shorter than Fugu, I think it is at least equally hard.”

It should be mentioned that Adam previously has done the first and only repeat of Alex Huber FA Open Air in Schleier Wasserfalle from 1996, upgrading it to 9a+. Ondra also made the first repeat of Huber's Weiße Rose 9a from 1994 in 2008. Few months ago, Jakob Schubert made the second repeat.

The day before he did Walk the Line 9a in Zillertal. ” Amazing diagonal line first asended by Jakob Schubert this spring. Really hard start that took me a long time to figure out, into some kneebaring and easier climbing, into pumpy finish. One try to check the moves, one more try to work the moves at the bottom and then epic fight on my third try.

The 27-year-old Czech has also logged a flash of Zwerg Bums di 8B in Zemmschlucht. "Felt pretty easy, hard to say about the grade. Later, I was REALLY close to flashing Nihilist sit 8B+."

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