26 June 2017
8c+ by Kajsa Rosรฉn in Frankenjura
Kajsa Rosรฉn has repeated Markus Bock's 30 meter long Battle Cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. It should be noted that she climbed it straight up like FA Markus Bock without escaping out to the jug.
In 2016, the 20 year old onsighted T1 Full Equipe 8c (b+) in Oliana. Last year she also won the Youth European Championship in Lead and out of the six times she has challenged the seniors she has been Top-12 four times. The next weekend the Swede competes in the Euro Lead Championships in Campitello, Italy. The great picture by Erik Massih.
How is it to prepare for the ECH in Frankenjura?
To climb outdoors as a preparation for an indoor competition may not be the best option. Personally, I climb better the happier and more relaxed I am...which I think happens when I climb a lot outdoors. How this kind of "preparation" will work or not still remains to be seen...I'm a bit curious myself I have to say. I simply have to cross my fingers for comp-routes built with lot of one-finger monos :)
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



