
29 April 2022
8c+ project from 1996 done by Alexis Guerin
Alexis Guerin has done the FA of Un dernier petit coup de Ju! (8c+) in Tilff, located 15 min from Liege in Belgium. "This project was bolted in 1996 by JC Vittoz and JL Putz and known as Suce-Pandus in the old guidebooks. The name Suces-Pandus is written at the bottom of the route over a big yellow painted stripe, so the route is easy to find. The route is a power endurance challenge of 22 moves. Once you passed the crux in the middle, you need to be very precise and every move you add can possibly make you fall. I hope you'll enjoy it as much as me."
How many sessions were needed?
Around 20 sessions, the time to understand the moves, clean the rock (some holds broke, in the beginning, the route was easier) and then put the tries. The end of the route is very sustained and it makes you feel as if the send was close. But every move you add after the crux can make you fall, so it took more time than expected.
Why do you think it has been a project for 26 years? Are the bolts OK?
Yes, the bolts are still ok as it was rebolted afterwards. The rock looks a bit brittle so it might also have discouraged some people to try but now that the route is cleaned the quality of the rock is good.
How many other routes are nearby?
Itโs a small crag, next to my FA thereโs a hard 8b, two 7c+ and a 7a+. Thereโs a big slab 100 m from that crag where there is an 8a and a project. I've bolted a project in a cave nearby, but havenโt tried it yet
How many sessions were needed?
Around 20 sessions, the time to understand the moves, clean the rock (some holds broke, in the beginning, the route was easier) and then put the tries. The end of the route is very sustained and it makes you feel as if the send was close. But every move you add after the crux can make you fall, so it took more time than expected.
Why do you think it has been a project for 26 years? Are the bolts OK?
Yes, the bolts are still ok as it was rebolted afterwards. The rock looks a bit brittle so it might also have discouraged some people to try but now that the route is cleaned the quality of the rock is good.
How many other routes are nearby?
Itโs a small crag, next to my FA thereโs a hard 8b, two 7c+ and a 7a+. Thereโs a big slab 100 m from that crag where there is an 8a and a project. I've bolted a project in a cave nearby, but havenโt tried it yet
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


