11 November 2017

8C+ low start extension by barefoot Charles Albert

Charles Albert, who stopped using climbing shoes some five years ago, has added a three move lower start to his La Revolutionnaire in Fotainebleau, making it his first 8C+. Charles says he do not think it is possible with shoes as there is a good pocket where he can squeeze in his big toe pulling in hard, meanwhile with a shoe, you can just push with your foot. In total he needed around 15 sessions. In the picture, the previous sit start is marked with red dots. Previously he has done three 8C's. Is this the hardest boulder in the world to repeat? Probably, any of the top boulders would need years of preparation to develop the big toe pulling in strength as well as the barefoot technique Charles possesses.
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