23 September 2020

FA queen Isabelle Faus puts up 8B+ and 8B's

Isabelle Faus has added yet another very impressive FAs to hard scorecard; Sinwav 8B+ in Pine Cliff, Get Laid 8B in Scoop and Glitter addict 8B in Pine Cliff. In total, she has now opened 19 boulders 8A to 8B+ FAs which makes her totally superior in the FA game. (c) Chad Greedy

"For me exploring and cleaning is a constant, I like repeating boulders too, but doing a first ascent is a contribution to the climbing community so for me itโ€™s more satisfying. It also makes the whole experience of projecting harder.. finding, cleaning , figuring out the beta, but I love the challenge. Finding beta is my favorite part, itโ€™s super creative... thereโ€™s no videos or pics for beta, so you really have to figure it out... Doing a first ascent means you have to have vision, know how to clean boulders, figure out your own beta, be willing to get dirty, and have faith in yourself that your doing things right and that your project is worth your time. Itโ€™s a lot harder! Process is always work, but itโ€™s great to transform something and give a little to the community. Very grateful for all the people who showed me how to open boulders. We have endless projects and I know from exploring that we always have things to do :)

Doing Sinawav was scary! I found it in a solo mission and itโ€™s my favorite thing Iโ€™ve found so I really wanted to do it. The day I sent I was in a bad mood, but I finally made it to this ledge before the highball ending.. I normally would have been scared cause I was sweaty and tired but... that day I gave zero fucks... It helped haha :) I definitely tried it with a rope, I always rehearse sequences on highballs. Itโ€™s hard climbing and high consequence. It breaks down like 8B to the ledge, after that you really donโ€™t want to fall, and itโ€™s 7C to the top. Bad slopey crimps and huge moves."


Sinawav was put up some two months ago and has not been repeated although Daniel Woods has been close. Two weeks the boulder FA queen repeated Creme de la Crumb 8B+ after some seven sessions of projecting. In the 8a ranking game she is #2 after Alex Puccio.
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