
8 November 2017
8A (+) by Leah Dempsey who started climbing 2013
Leah Dempsey has in just four session done Sleepy Hollow 8A (+) in Grampians and the amazing thing is that she started climbing in 2013. In 2015, she did her first 7A boulder and last year she did her first 7C. In Lead, she has jumped from 8a to 8b+ in 2017.
"I donโt know if I have fast track method for my progress, apart from the fact that I enjoy the whole challenge of training and taking responsibility for my own climbing and progress. Also having a super supportive and encouraging network have helped an insane amount. Believing is key! Oh, and having lots of fun!"
So what about training?
Mainly just bouldering in the gym, campusing, fingerboarding, as well as some basic core and shoulder stability exercises. Nothing too strict. All depends on the project/upcoming trip at the time. I make sure that I have at least five days off every four months to not burn out.
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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