7B with one hand in Fontainebleau
EDITORIAL
Tuesday, 19 January

"Christophe Cazin showed me that boulder 2.5 years ago when my level was barely 6C in Font. I’ll admit that I didn’t believe in it at first, but Christophe remained adamant it would eventually work, so I’d give it a few goes every 6 months or so… It was a kind of yardstick. But then I spent a whole year on the comp circuit and didn’t have time to get on it, and in September 2020 I started training with Guillaume. I felt like I’d improved, and that I was finally ready to really commit to it.
After that I must have tried 3 or 4 times without much belief, then 2 sessions on the rope last October, and finally 2 ‘redpoint’ sessions… These last two proved tough, because I was suddenly pretty close to sending, and I fell several times from the very top… Yes, for me this boulder problem is far from over once the left-hand lands the last good crimp! It was super frustrating!"
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Systematic Devaluing ethics
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No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs
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Tuesday, 19 January
Add crags to the database
We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.
NUMBERS
Monday, 12 October
Systematic Devaluing ethics
Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…
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During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …