19 January 2021
7B with one hand in Fontainebleau
Fanatic Climbing reports with one hand that two times Para World Champion, Solenne Piret, born with one hand, has done Onde de Choc 7B in Fontainebleau. (c) Arthur Delicque
"Christophe Cazin showed me that boulder 2.5 years ago when my level was barely 6C in Font. Iโll admit that I didnโt believe in it at first, but Christophe remained adamant it would eventually work, so Iโd give it a few goes every 6 months or soโฆ It was a kind of yardstick. But then I spent a whole year on the comp circuit and didnโt have time to get on it, and in September 2020 I started training with Guillaume. I felt like Iโd improved, and that I was finally ready to really commit to it.
After that I must have tried 3 or 4 times without much belief, then 2 sessions on the rope last October, and finally 2 โredpointโ sessionsโฆ These last two proved tough, because I was suddenly pretty close to sending, and I fell several times from the very topโฆ Yes, for me this boulder problem is far from over once the left-hand lands the last good crimp! It was super frustrating!"
"Christophe Cazin showed me that boulder 2.5 years ago when my level was barely 6C in Font. Iโll admit that I didnโt believe in it at first, but Christophe remained adamant it would eventually work, so Iโd give it a few goes every 6 months or soโฆ It was a kind of yardstick. But then I spent a whole year on the comp circuit and didnโt have time to get on it, and in September 2020 I started training with Guillaume. I felt like Iโd improved, and that I was finally ready to really commit to it.
After that I must have tried 3 or 4 times without much belief, then 2 sessions on the rope last October, and finally 2 โredpointโ sessionsโฆ These last two proved tough, because I was suddenly pretty close to sending, and I fell several times from the very topโฆ Yes, for me this boulder problem is far from over once the left-hand lands the last good crimp! It was super frustrating!"
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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