5.35 and 6.74 unofficial new WR in Speed

Zhao Lei, Team Manager of Chinese Climbing Team, has published two videos on his Insta from the China nationals in Speed. Qixin Zhong, 165 cm tall, set a new unofficial world record in Speed at 5.35 among the male. Previously the 31-year-old has won 12 World Cups and 3 World Championships. He also won the last WC in 2019 at 5.49 which was his first victory in three years. It should be noted that in the video, Qixin's opponent Cao Long is ahead until his foot slips in the very end getting very close to go under 5.30 it seems. In training, Cao has done 5.25. The official world record is 5.48 set by Reza Alipour in 2017.

It should be mentioned that the new world records were set on an certified wall but in order to set a new world record, it has to be an IFSC competion with an IFSC Jury President. Among the female, Lijuan Deng won at 6.74 which can be compared with the official world record at 6.995 by Aries Susanti Rahayu. Lijuan is 20-years-old and last year she only participated once in the World Cup where she was #5 at 7.40.