5 April 2018

350 WC points in 2019 means very close to Tokyo

In 2016, you needed to participate in all three disciplines in order to get a Combined ranking and 44 points was enough to be #10 among the male. In 2017, 278 points was needed to be #20 as only one discipline was good enough to get a Combined ranking. Among the Top-20 male, six Speed climbers made the cut even if they just did Speed events. For 2018, it is not clear if you need to take part in one or three disciplines to take part in the Combined ranking. The Top-20 in the Combined World Cup in 2019 will participate in a qualification event where the Top-6 makes it to the Olympics. Based on previous World Cups, we can say that for sure 350 points will be good enough to be Top-20. In practice this means that possibly the Top-5 Speed specialists will make it through to the qualification event. Before the qualification event, there will be a Combined World Championship where the Top-7 (but max 2 from one country) will get their Olympic ticket. In practice, this could mean that almost all (non-Japaneses) that have gotten 350 points will make it to Tokyo. (Male: There might be 7 Japaneses and 3 Italians, Austrians or Russians etc in the Top-20 Combined World Cup 2019). With an increased number of participants in Lead and Boulder it could be that even 300 points is good enough for Top-20, increasing the number of Speed specialists getting an Olympic ticket. On the other hand, the Speed specialist will not have a chance to make it Top-7 in the Combined World Championship, meaning that, based on country quota, they are at greater risk for not making it. We assume that there are, in comparison, less Speed specialists that share the Top-5 results giving them a high overall score. On the other hands, among the boulderers and lead climbers, the results usually are far less uniform throughout the events also because the styles vary.
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