15 IFSC comps for Ginés Lopez

EDITORIAL

Thursday, 22 July

Alberto Ginés Lopez has competed in 15 IFSC competitions in 2021 as a preparation for the Tokyo Olympics. This can be compared to 3-5 events for most of his Olympics opponents. As a matter of a fact, many of the Olympians have not done any IFSC competitions in 2021. The male Top-4 favourites have done 3 - 8:
8 Alex Megos
5 Jakob Schubert
4 Tomoa Narasaki
3 Adam Ondra

The big question is which strategy is best? Surely, many already have years of competition experience but as there were only one WC in 2020, doing just a few is not ideal. Having focused mainly on training during 2021 including Speed, creating few opportunities for having fun at comps and outdoors, will build up anxiety in Tokyo. If you start the Olympics below expectations, even if you reach the final, the level of anxiety will increase, as you have sacrificed so much.

Personally, I think Alberto will feel less pressure if he ends up going into the second and third boulder with previous just bad results, compared with the ones having mainly just been training in 2021.

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