29 January 2025

100 sessions for Coudert in a 9A+?

Camille Coudert, who in 2022 repeated Soudain seul (9A) (without a book) made the FA of Imothep du sol (8B+) in Fontainebleau almost two years ago. Now he has spent some 100 sessions working the full line from the sit start, without having done the second move.

โ€œI fall at the last hard move starting from the second move but I still donโ€™t make it to the second hold (Iโ€™m getting closer). I would say that I am both near and far.โ€

The breakdown on the very steep arete with a great focus on the right heal is,
Sit start; 2 moves 8B+ (C)* and 4 moves 8B
Stand start: 2 moves 8B/+ and 8 moves 8A

โ€I think it is a hard 8C+ if you start from the second move and possibly 9A+ from the sit. You can not chalk until the 8A section but still not sure if is effective.โ€

Camille (178 cm), who started climbing at age 18 and sent an 8A in Font in less than two years, is known for his hard grades.

* Nico Pelorson, with a 190 cm ape-index, has done the two first moves but he has abandoned the project as he had bigger problems with the other heal hooking moves.
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