13 December 2019

Belhaj's regular AD belayer believe him and is critical towards Huch

Two of Said Belhaj's belayers have backed him up saying he did overlapping links in regards to that in Hannes Huch article it said the opposite. "Said was million miles away from climbing even just from bolt to bolt." His regular climber (Wolfgang Schรผssler) was also mentioned in Huch article only stating that he had never seen him do the dyno. For some reason, Huch did not include that, Belhaj "did climb the upper section from the jump.", although it was mentioned to Huch. "First of all its good that you have contacted me, as I have been closely watching this situation about the ascent of AD unfold. Especially since the article of Hannes on his Blog has been published and it has been discussed by people in the public with many different angles on 8a.nu and some Instagram accounts. The reasons why I haven't been jumping into this discussion so fast is that I rather have a proper reflection on my behalf to look into myself and make a conscious decision, before I get attached towards a group dynamic, which can be emotional at times, driven by wrong motives or judged in a very fast and unthoughtful way. I felt repelled to discuss such a sensitive and personal situation in public, because the effect can be very destructive and harmful to either side. I totally understand that there can be doubts about anyone's achievements and it is of course not satisfactory to some that the actual belayer has not been able to get hold of. As climbers trust is at the base of our general relationship with others, cause this could mean the difference between life and death in the case of rope climbing. This is probably one of the motives why it is easy to get pulled into such a delicate discussion. In regards to me as one of the belayers, who has spent a considerable amount of time with Said at the Waldkopf I can say the following: I have observed Said climbing in the route and he did climb the upper section from the jump, worked on a beta which gave him the ability to climb the upper section and was in my opinion not "million miles away from climbing even just from bolt to bolt", as Hannes mentioned it in the article on his Blog - this assumption comes from Hannes observing him on two occasions on which I was there to belay and support the project. I can therefore say that it is a possibility after the initial jump for Said to finish after the entry, but I was not there on the actual date when Said climbed the route and therefore I just can say what I have seen and experienced. In the time when Said was in the Frankenjura he climbed almost every day at different crags with me and some friends, so it doesn't surprise me that on some occasions he wasn't able to perform at his best. Hannes has been in touch via phone with me afterwards and I mentioned to him what I have stated above. I felt that this case should have been discussed between Hannes and Said in private, that's why I just mentioned what I saw to Hannes, as I don't like talking about people behind their back - at that time I was still hoping that this conflict will be resolved in a civilised manner behind doors. In regards towards the way it has been documented by Hannes I want to share some thoughts about the visual presentation in the article. I found it quite disturbing that some visual content has been used to distort part of the story. This impression has to do especially with the last picture of Said and Jerry Moffatt, which can be seen by some readers as a final conclusion. I was there during this interview. Hannes was filming Said and Jerry Moffat and the topic was about the route, its history and there was no actual accusation or expressed doubt from Jerry Moffat towards Said. To have a caption like "How dare you?" under a picture can give the audience a false impression and is being used in tabloid coverage to distort the readers view of the world. In the end I can only say that I hope that this situation wont be used for people to gain a profit. For me it was about supporting a close friend to reach their full potential.
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