16 October 2019
Reduce time but increase action and fairness in Boulder finals
One dilemma with boulder comps is that they take too long time and because of this the 4+ min rule was replaced with 4 min flat. Furthermore, in the Olympics, there will be only three problems separating the boulderers. Another dilemma is the lack of action which made Doha Beach Games try a rule saying that you had to get the zone in 2 min to have the full 4 min. This did not turn out so well as nobody of the male did get a zone in the final problem.
One solution for reducing the time and at the same time increase the action could be to have a 2 + 3 min rule similar to in Doha and let everyone, who could not do it, have one final go. The scoring of such an attempt could be based on actual # of tries or let say attempt #10.
Remember that Jakob Schubert got the silver in the World Championship by getting one Top in the qually and zero Tops in the final. If he could have rested like 10 minutes before trying each of the four boulders he did not do, we probably would have seen more action. Among the female in the WCH, nobody could reach the zone on the third and last problem.
It should be mentioned that with just three boulders and few tops and zones in the Olympic format, fairness is at risk. Being the best on one boulder but not scoring a zone is simply not fair. The spectators could think that lower-ranked climbers are better than higher ranked.
22 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



