16 October 2019

Reduce time but increase action and fairness in Boulder finals

One dilemma with boulder comps is that they take too long time and because of this the 4+ min rule was replaced with 4 min flat. Furthermore, in the Olympics, there will be only three problems separating the boulderers. Another dilemma is the lack of action which made Doha Beach Games try a rule saying that you had to get the zone in 2 min to have the full 4 min. This did not turn out so well as nobody of the male did get a zone in the final problem. One solution for reducing the time and at the same time increase the action could be to have a 2 + 3 min rule similar to in Doha and let everyone, who could not do it, have one final go. The scoring of such an attempt could be based on actual # of tries or let say attempt #10. Remember that Jakob Schubert got the silver in the World Championship by getting one Top in the qually and zero Tops in the final. If he could have rested like 10 minutes before trying each of the four boulders he did not do, we probably would have seen more action. Among the female in the WCH, nobody could reach the zone on the third and last problem. It should be mentioned that with just three boulders and few tops and zones in the Olympic format, fairness is at risk. Being the best on one boulder but not scoring a zone is simply not fair. The spectators could think that lower-ranked climbers are better than higher ranked.
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