28 September 2019
Hugh gap to the 25 % weakest in Tokyo
It might be that in Tokyo 2020, 15 of the best male Lead & Boulder athletes will compete together with five several levels below. Already now, we have Rishat Khaibullin and Ludovico Fossoli qualified, out of which the latter will struggle to get one zone in Bouldering. The other three, several levels below in Lead and Bouldering could be the African respective the Ocean Champions and Bassa Mawem*.
Among the female, it is also likely that three Speed specialists; Aleksandra Miroslaw, Di Niu* and Anouck Jaubert* as well as the African and Ocean representative, will take the five last positions with a wide marginal in Lead and Bouldering.
This will create problems for the route setters and especially in Bouldering, this will be hard to solve. Creating separation among the weakest means it will be too easy for the best. It might be that five will end up with zero zones and 18 as their multiplicator, alternatively getting one zone and you are #16. One solution to solve this delicate problem is to use two zones in the Olympics.
It should be mentioned that Khaibullin is reasonably strong especially in bouldering. Furthermore, in theory, there could be from 2 - 6 very good Speed climbers in Tokyo but most likely 5.
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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