17 April 2019
Black Mamba 8c trad roof by the Wide Boyz
Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, one of the best crack climbers out there, have made another hard first ascent in the Utah desert, Black Mamba 8c which may be their hardest roof crack yet. Whittaker describes the first ascents: (c) Talo Martin
"The route is like a mining tunnel, you walk to the back and start in a crouched position with a head torch on and canโt believe you now have to climb the same distance you just walkedโฆbut completely upside down.
Nevertheless, itโs as much about being tactical as it is about having the strength and endurance to be able to climb it. It required a head torch lit start, 3 hand jam glove changes, a rope tie mid pitch and toilet roll cushioning for tricep protection. It usually ends up that we use these bizarre tactics because weโre so focused on the climbing we forget to bring the more conventional tools to the crag, i.e. elbow pads or proper lanterns.
There are 4 distinct cruxes. 2 are finger jamming, 1 is thin hands and the final redpoint crux comes as a heart breaking last move; rounding the lip of the finishing off width. The key beta here was to make sure that the nose of the roof sat in the indentation below your sternum. Any lower with your torso and youโd unfortunately come up short every time.
The final off width in general is a little fighter. On its own it is a struggle, but with the continuous upside-down climbing beforehand, itโs a real world of dread when you finally get there on the big redpoint. If the route stopped before this, the whole thing would be like a beef sandwich - reasonably meaty. In totality, itโs that final 9 inch section that really makes it a full Sunday roast."
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