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Buenos Aires route setting change the conditions 
 

The Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires was a great show although different when it comes to topping frequency in comparison to WCH in Innsbruck. This certainly made it more fun to watch for the general public but some climbers think Lead should be about difficulty and not Speed. In general, I think the Speed element in Lead could be nice for the semifinal which otherwise sometimes can be more boring. However, in any case split times are crucial to increase excitement to understand who is climbing faster 3/4 up the route. Further more, having more than two guys topping out the final must be considered a route setting mistake. IFSC should make a statement how they want the route setting in order to inform if the Olympic candidates should also start training sprint up Lead routes below three minutes.

When it comes to bouldering, more tops are great like in Buenos Aires. On the other hand, the boulders seemed to involve less moves. Was the walls lower and less steep than normal? Possibly the route setter could lower the starting position with half a meter so there can be more action upwards to the top. And once again, two zones will force the route setters to make the boulders more interesting which both the climbers and the spectators will benefit from.