17 September 2018
8 Combined finalists, more excitement and reduced time
The Combined Finals in Innsbruck were a success although they lasted around 300 minutes out of which only 20 + 90 + 40 = 150 min was climbing action.
Here is a solution for reducing and evening out the disciplines' time and still increase to 8 competitors which is crucial attracting more broad casting nations.
Speed: 25 min instead of 20 min
False start count as fall and everyone does two qualification rounds which will avoid potential anti-climax due to falls and false starts. Unfairness if the ranked #1 in Speed will meet ranked #2 will be avoided. The fastest four go to semifinal.
Boulder: 60 min instead of 90 min
Rotating start of the first three boulders = 36 min. The Top-4 advances to final boulder with reversed starting order after a 10 min break. This will increase action time and minimize dead moments when the athletes rest as well as increase final boulder excitement.
Lead: 50 min instead of 40 min
Advantages
Reduced and even out time, 25 + 60 + 50 = 135 min, incl. extra 10 min break, instead of 150 in Innsbruck
More competitors/nations competing will increase global interest
No anti-climax risk and more fair in Speed
More action on first 3 boulders as well as excitement on final boulder
It should be noted that keeping 6 finalists, the time consumption in bouldering could be 40 min instead of the 90 min in Innsbruck.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


