29 August 2018

Zangerl and Larcher do 30 pitches Odyssee 8a+

Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have made the second repeat of the 33 pitches and 1 400 m Odyssee 8a+ on the north face of Eiger. "Both of us climbed all the pitches free in four days (swinging leads) and the crux pitches both on lead. Roger Schaeli and Robert Jasper established the route in between 2009-2013 with pitons and bolts. In 2015, they were joined by Simon Gietl and made a so called team ascent during that summer. Later Fabian Buhl made the first repeat in a four days solo mission. (c) Paolo Sartori "The Eiger was a serious adventure for us. We didn't have perfect conditions. It was a real alpine experience. It was always a dream to climb a route on the famous Eiger north face. So first of all we wanted to climb something easier like Deep blue sea which was great climbing on perfect limestone. After we climbed Magic mushroom (in a day) what was double as long but still in a alpine-sport climbing style what means well protected with some longer runouts on bolts. Then we wanted to go for a longer more alpine route through the steepest part of the north face and we choose Odyssee because Roger Schรคli told us about the great climbing through a steep challenging part of the wall." Ten years ago, the 163 cm Austrian was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which had her to stop bouldering. Today, including trad FA up to 8c and several 8c+' in sport and a 9a as well as world class multi-pitches and big walls up to 8b+ on El Cap, she is most be considered the best female multi-discipline climber in the world.
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