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Sachi Amma changes horizon
OffLine 8a.nu
  2016-11-24 00:00:00    
Sachi Amma stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. In 2016, he has slowly been shifting again and just stopped doing hard routes after a 9a+ in Flatanger this summer. (c) Sam Bie above Leonidio.

"I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others? I my case, I had strong beliefs that I am the tiniest concept of myself. I needed to cover this weakness by doing amazing things (winning comps or climbing hard) but I noticed that you will never be satisfied by being better than the others. Because the essential problems are just covered and they are still there.

Please do not misunderstand that this way of thinking applies to all people. I think competition is very good way to learn yourself (And I know that lots of my friends who compete do it not just for winning....) I am pretty sure that comparing with others never gives you the real happiness.

So what is your goal now?
(10 seconds of silence) I do not know...
I am in the maze of my life. Today the image of climbing, specially media's focus, is mostly about power, strong or crazy. It is masculine. But my point of view, human has a feminine side too which is like smooth or beautiful. If the balance of climbing becomes more feminine, it will be beautiful! But this new vision came to me after stop pushing myself and it is still an undeveloped area for me.

And another vision is to createa place where climbers can show there passion and spirit, specially in Japan. There are not so many slideshows or film festival in Japan. I hope people who loves climbing (even if they are not strong) stands up more. I just want to get more ideas to enjoy and expand the potential of climbing.

Could not Tokyo Olympics become a motivator for fame and sponsors again?
I have thought about this a lot and first I did hesitate but, no. This huge topic let me think what I really want to do and it was not Olympics.

So what is the next plan?
I keep asking myself this all the time as I asked myself, "Why am I doing this?", when I was competitive... (10 seconds of silence)I will go to Spain for three weeks in December. But I do not know what I will climb. But I believe if I just keep being myself, life goes where I want to go!
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Dan Cannaday
  2016-11-24 05:08:12    
This is a very interesting piece to find here on 8a.  It reads much more like what I would find in a magazine.  I like it.  I really enjoy knowing how other climbers (and not just the top guys) approach climbing.  I'm just surprised to find it... here.
OffLine Ian Walters
  2016-11-24 06:52:56    
excellent
OffLine Jurasaurus
  2016-11-24 07:15:56    
Great post. Please more articles of personal approaches to climbing. Keep it up!  Climbing is way more than acting like an achievement-oriented machine. It’s a school for life.
OnLine Joakim Thommesen
  2016-11-24 10:37:22    
Wise words. Nice to hear a top athlete say he's not into Olympics and sponsor BS.
OffLine Chalk Norris
  2016-11-24 12:37:05    
Where is this interview from?
Best article I read here for a long time.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2016-11-24 13:00:14    
Thanks :) I met and climbed with Sachi in Leonidio two weeks ago... it was very interesting! 
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2016-11-24 15:05:27    
Well said Sachi! "I am the tiniest concept of myself". I think you've gone beyond the ridiculous forums of this and many other websites. Chris Sharma had an existential crisis after climbing Biographie, but eventually it lead him back to climbing as a way to live a good life. I hope you find what you seek. You're a very talented climber and an inspiration to many. Best of luck in whatever endeavour you seek.
OffLine Christian Mengel
  2016-11-24 15:21:06    
Best feature I´ve read on this page. More of that, please! Sachi, climbing will remain meaningful in some way...and if not, being a good person is far more important in the end. Not all those who wander are lost.
OffLine Rafa Cliiiiiimb .
  2016-11-25 09:24:40    
Enjoy the life Sachi, climb for yourself and don´t publish your achievements, wich are only for you ;) Congrats for these thoughts