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Angy Eiter's 9b video
  2017-11-06 00:00:00    
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2017-11-06 18:35:28    
i  was hoping for a bit more. In terms of insight and quality. Hope there is another version coming picturing the allegedly greatest ascents in female climbing
OffLine Bojan
  2017-11-07 09:13:20    
I'm also curious why exactly this ascent is THE huge *milestone* in female climbing.
Next level, no doubt, but one (plus) grade up is what we see in several tenths of cases in the past, in many cases several times by the same climber (e.g., G├╝llich, Bereziartu).
Style (long, specific, replica training) is nothing new, on the contrary.
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2017-11-07 14:55:03    
Maybe you are right. 9a+ to 9b maybe is just a plus. But the climb has been established by the best and after a break even touted as 9b+. It just came out of the blue with angy having done one 9a before i thought.

We will see how long it takes for the next 9b repeat of an rather established 9b. maybe ist just weeks away with the latest development
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-11-07 19:27:56    
Guys are you kidding?

We were just celebrating the first female athlete capable of nailing a confirmed, benchmark 9a+ (Biographie, on the back of a potentially lesser 9a+ like la Rambla but still 9a+ ipse dixit Ondra) somebody does a solid + grade more and we frown upon it?

Can you imagine somebody with credentials climbing a route that (although unclimbed) many top climbers would have considered 9b+ one month after Sharma had done Jumbo Love 9b?

But yeah, slightly disappointing video : (

But well done again Angy!
OffLine Bojan
  2017-11-08 10:08:50    
>"We will see how long it takes for the next 9b repeat of an rather established 9b. maybe ist just weeks away with the latest development"

It would be a surprise for me if we see another 9b in the near future. Reason is simple -- most of the best climbers are too busy with competitions. Especially now with Olympics closing, meaning competition climbing is gaining attention against outdoors and comp climbers are forced to seriously train and compete in at least two or even three disciplines.

Angy's 9b and Adam 9c came after they finish/break their competition career and after a long, dedicated, specific training and focus on the particular route. Similar with Biographie but (as I discussed before) 9a+ was not a surprise as IMHO many women are capable of doing 9a+ and some 9b. I believe two grades is the "normal" difference between men and women now and it has been in the past. And sometimes it may come to just one plus (e.g. Katie Brown's 8b OS in 1999?, Bereziartu 9a(+), Ashima 8C ... comes to mind), not to mention Hills's Nose (but this is not sport climbing...).

@Franz, yes, Angy's 9b is absolutely great, but my personal opinion is calling it "huge milestone" is a little bit cocky and disrespectful/ignorant to the other women in the past (and present!). And I guess these are not Angy's exact words or are at least a product of the media and sponsors who like to see "first, best, huge ..." on their front pages.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-11-10 11:31:46    
So no woman (or man?) can ever do a milestone in climbing again because Lynn Hill freed the freaking Nose in the 90s and that's it, end of the party everybody, pack it up, all that was worth doing has been done.

And I'm actually glad sponsors/media/the public are still interested in world-class performance, because at some point things got awfully close to a focus on something else (SBC? Rannveig Aamdodt?) which wasn't that...
OffLine Bojan
  2017-11-10 15:32:58    
>"So no woman (or man?) can ever do a milestone in climbing again because Lynn Hill freed the freaking Nose."

Every new 'plus' on a grade scale is new 'milestone'. Just in last 30 years or so there were around 10 such 'milestones' in women sport (roped) climbing and several more in other types of climbing (bouldering, trad, big wall...). That's why I asked in my first post "I'm also curious why exactly this ascent is THE huge *milestone* in female climbing". So if you say: "This is HUGE" it implies other 'plus steps' on a grading scale are not. Makes no sense to me.

I only mentioned Hill/Nose to show that on several occasions in history women came even closer to men's achievement. In fact I DO believe this particular ascent was huge milestone in history of women climbing. I suppose it was the only case where any women even overcome men. But of course this happen in big wall free (and trad) climbing, which is not so popular or widespread as sport climbing...

>And I'm actually glad sponsors/media/the public are still interested in world-class performance".

I'm glad, too, and there is no doubt we are speaking about world class performance (so I don't know why do you mention this). Although I would like to see more in depth interviews and quality videos on such achievements in the media.