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Sam Avezou wins through his Speed
  2017-09-10 00:00:00    
Sam Avezou from France won the Combined Youth in a dramatic final climbing faster than Filip Schenk to their scoring 37+. If Filip, who started last, had controlled hold 38, he would have won. Sam is, among the ones performing in all three disciplines, the world's fastest Speed climber, 7.51 and a contender for a medal in Tokyo 2020.

1. Sam Avezou FRA 3 * 7 * 2 = 42
2. Filip Schenk AUT 15 * 1.5 * 3 = 67.5
3. Peter Ivanov BUL 6 * 3 * 4 = 72
Complete results

It should be noted that in Youth A, the Top-20 from all disciplines competed as it was also a qualification for the Top-13 to the Youth Olympic Games in Argentina in 2018. In the Olympics, the Combined event will finish with a final with Top-6 from the semifinal. More pics on Austria Climbing.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-10 20:59:33    
Seems we have 2 speed events in combined competition ... the time decided on all(?) tied ranks in *lead*. E.g. Dohi on 5th place was two places better(!) than Pan (7th place), even if they have the same height in lead and Pan has better (lower) product of speed*boulder (5*6=30) than Dohi (9*4=36)! :-P
I hate time but I can see same rationality for it in *standalone lead* discipline on *medal places*, where time 'solves' the situation where we could have more than one champion (or silver / bronze medals).
But I really don't see any reason why time in *lead* should split ties in *combined* ranking?!
I hope that silly combined format circus will end after 2020 and every climber would be free to practice the discipline s/he likes not the one which s/he is forced into.
OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-10 21:26:23    
Schenk is from Italy, not Austria.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-10 22:01:36    
I Like the idea with Time deciding ties in Lead Combined but we do need a clock and split times so we can increase the excitement.
OffLine frank krane
  2017-09-11 11:17:20    
If Filip, who started last, had controlled hold 38, he would have won.
He would have won also if he would have reached 37+ faster than Sam.

I agree with Bojan on the Time rule (even if for the first place not to have it wouldn't change the result) and on the fact that Filip is Italian.
OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-11 11:18:16    
>I Like the idea with Time deciding ties in Lead Combined

Can you be more specific? Are you just bored watching and you are glad it is over as soon as possible?
OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-11 11:26:46    
>If Filip, who started last, had controlled hold 38, he would have won.
He would have won also if he would have reached 37+ faster than Sam.

@Frank: On the other hand, if lead was scored as it should be (without this fu** time), Sam will still win ahead of Filip. The reason for this is Filip got 50% extra points in boulder (tied 1st place with Nathan), even if he performed as good as anyone can - 4 flashes... ;)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 13:41:19    
I think it is more exciting to watch if I know that also time is a factor that could decide who will win.

This means that it will be more interesting to watch the start in order to see who is faster. If we do not have time, the start becomes often boring as it is often just a walk in the park. If we include split times, we can on the other hand see who is in the lead.
OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-11 17:07:09    
>I think it is more exciting to watch if I know that also time is a factor that could decide who will win.

For you and other guys like you there is a special discipline in sport climbing -- speed. Maybe you should stop watching lead and let the guys like Ai Mori finish their job.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 18:10:16    
From what I have heard, there were no trainers complaining on the 6 min rule on YWC. Instead, many said it is a step forward for our sport. I am sure most like the new 6 min rule.