10 September 2016

Marcin Dzieński - the fastest climber in the world

Marcin Dzieński, 166 cm tall and weighing 65 kg, has won the last three Speed World Cups, often sharing the podium with 190 cm guys. Check him running up the 15 meter wall in less than six seconds. Please explain how much and how you have trained to be #1 in the world. Oh, no! You want to know my top secret and make it public ;) It depends on the time of the year. In winter I have training almost every day, then in season “only” four days in week... but as a pro, I am working on my shape 24/7/365 – it means that recovery, diet, mental training are an integral and permanent part of my training regime. Even if I want to socialize with friends – it goes aside from the plan ;) In season, main training sessions take around 3-4 hours per day, then one day rest. My training is mostly running on the wall and some special exercise for strength and power. Almost the same like for other kind of climbing (eg. campus, pull-up bar etc.). Of course I can’t forget about legs, which are trained on the gym or track for plyometric routine. What is your level in Lead and Bouldering now? Do you plan to go all in for the Combined format? Honestly, I don’t have enough time for training lead and bouldering, because am still studying full time physical education at the university. Fortunately, it’s my last year and will have more spare time. I used to start in all kind of climbing comps when I was youth - and even taken silver in junior category on boulder National Champ. Few times in year I go bouldering for fun and able to repead some 7B/C quite quickly... Do you like the Combined Olympic format or could it be improved? They should do 3 disciplines in Tokyo 2020 as in the world championship. Combined will destroy our work so far. But you have to know that we have to be happy that we are in.
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