Mammut Bus
Vertical-Life
Climb to Paris
POWERED BY Mammut Logo
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
meters to Paris
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Open forum

More than just power

Hi guys, I want to start training again for a new project and started thinking about how to train. After some thoughts I got back to a point that I never settled down.  It seems that that the strongest male and female climbers climb about the same grades, but with a very big difference in the power each one of the genders have. Male at that level can usually do many one hand pull-ups and some even on their pinky. Women on the other side mostly cannot do one hand pull-ups. It also seems that us, males, need this extra power to finish very hard routes. But is this true? Is it power that we need to improve or something else? Maybe flexibility? balance? technique? Another problem as I see it, is that the way we train is also dictated by male climbers who write all the books I know about training for climbing. What do you guys think?
I do believe that there is to much focus on power among climbers and trainers. I have been a coach for 25 years and I do believe that the quickest progress is found through focusing on technique, balance and flexibility. This I have actually written in some articles just recently :)