Vertical-Life
New River Gorge
641
ASCENTS
45 %
OS RATE
568
ROUTES IN DB
641
ASCENTS
45 %
OS RATE
568
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| bovine seduction (6b+) | goal of more pitches than stars today. Turns out these routes are sick |
11 Apr 2017
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| goal of more pitches than stars today. Turns out these routes are sick | ||||||
| malfunction junction (6b) |
11 Apr 2017
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| Cheese-eating Surrender Monkey (6c+) | pretty bold to do ground up without the bolt. Glad it's there now. Good route |
28 Mar 2017
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| pretty bold to do ground up without the bolt. Glad it's there now. Good route | ||||||
| Jik Fung (8a) | the epitome of NRG trad face. 35 meters, two 12+/13- cruxes, and lots of sustained climbing in between. Adding the 12a direct start makes it even better. Almost got the 2nd ascent snaked by Caroline but fortunately I spent time top roping this while she went ground up. |
9 Mar 2017
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| the epitome of NRG trad face. 35 meters, two 12+/13- cruxes, and lots of sustained climbing in between. Adding the 12a direct start makes it even better. Almost got the 2nd ascent snaked by Caroline but fortunately I spent time top roping this while she went ground up. | ||||||
| Non Sequitur (7c+) | One-two with Caroline Ciavaldini. NBD... Double rope euro style. OG finish to the bolt anchor. |
6 Mar 2017
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| One-two with Caroline Ciavaldini. NBD... Double rope euro style. OG finish to the bolt anchor. | ||||||
| Ziggernknot (6b) |
24 Feb 2017
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| N.N. (6a) | Corner left of Ziggerknot |
24 Feb 2017
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| Corner left of Ziggerknot | ||||||
| Cargo (7a+) | Craig's new one at Mud Hueco. Great face crux up high |
21 Feb 2017
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| Craig's new one at Mud Hueco. Great face crux up high | ||||||
| Momia Peruana (6a+) | New Rudaw route left of Fabulous Groupies. |
20 Feb 2017
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| New Rudaw route left of Fabulous Groupies. | ||||||
| Blown Away (5c) | The crack at the right end of Orange Oswald listed as Unnamed in the book. I never could track down a name or FA for this so I think we should call it 'Blown Away' in honor of Nathaniel Walker's many legendary 8a comments including this one, cut and pasted here without permission for your pleasure: 3 pieces. .4C, #1C, #2C. Splitter just right of Barfing Butterflies. OK, So This One Blew Me Away. Twice. When I showed up, I walked the cliff to see what I wanted to do, climbed for the day and then looked at the guide when the day was done. This is the best line on the cliff. Period. Of everything here, this was the one I would not leave without. It starts with some easy horizontal ledge stuff to 10ft and then you roll right into the ultimate, so splitter finger crack with face features and orange rock. It grows in size and about halfway up the route you hit a small roof with kneebars. Tight hands here. Pulling the roof gains the crown jewel 60 degree V-slot of gold stone capped with a small roof. Yes, the splitter strait out the center is absolutely perfect hands. The easy exit is actually a jug rail out the right side. Water worn, rounded face holds surround the still perfect splitter until it touches the anchors at #3 camalot size. Wow! So Good. Definately Blown Away. When I looked at the guide after the day was done, I expected to find a really good name attached to this one. Alas, some how no name credit was given. I was blown away for the second time. I would offer to name it "God's Own Stone" but that one is already taken. |
20 Feb 2017
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| The crack at the right end of Orange Oswald listed as Unnamed in the book. I never could track down a name or FA for this so I think we should call it 'Blown Away' in honor of Nathaniel Walker's many legendary 8a comments including this one, cut and pasted here without permission for your pleasure:
3 pieces. .4C, #1C, #2C. Splitter just right of Barfing Butterflies. OK, So This One Blew Me Away. Twice. When I showed up, I walked the cliff to see what I wanted to do, climbed for the day and then looked at the guide when the day was done. This is the best line on the cliff. Period. Of everything here, this was the one I would not leave without. It starts with some easy horizontal ledge stuff to 10ft and then you roll right into the ultimate, so splitter finger crack with face features and orange rock. It grows in size and about halfway up the route you hit a small roof with kneebars. Tight hands here. Pulling the roof gains the crown jewel 60 degree V-slot of gold stone capped with a small roof. Yes, the splitter strait out the center is absolutely perfect hands. The easy exit is actually a jug rail out the right side. Water worn, rounded face holds surround the still perfect splitter until it touches the anchors at #3 camalot size. Wow! So Good. Definately Blown Away. When I looked at the guide after the day was done, I expected to find a really good name attached to this one. Alas, some how no name credit was given. I was blown away for the second time. I would offer to name it "God's Own Stone" but that one is already taken. | ||||||
| God of Fire (6c+) | Had to do some lichen excavating to find the crux holds. |
18 Feb 2017
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| Had to do some lichen excavating to find the crux holds. | ||||||
| total sex package (7a+) | tried to onsight this thing 3 times over 10 years. Never could do it. |
18 Feb 2017
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| tried to onsight this thing 3 times over 10 years. Never could do it. | ||||||
| Lewd Operator (6a+) |
6 Feb 2017
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| Lose Your Flower (7a+) | Two old project bolts and a pin that I pulled out on the way up and replaced with a .4 camalot. Climbs half of Use Your Power then moves right. |
6 Feb 2017
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| Two old project bolts and a pin that I pulled out on the way up and replaced with a .4 camalot. Climbs half of Use Your Power then moves right. | ||||||
| No Time for Love (7c) | Sick route. Barely overhanging with a 16 foot crux run with no pro that made me feel like Honnold. |
6 Feb 2017
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| Sick route. Barely overhanging with a 16 foot crux run with no pro that made me feel like Honnold. | ||||||
| Frog Town (7a) | FA? Probably not. This route climbs through the runout section of the American's Baby, then cuts right to clip 3 bolts. Combines runout trad and poorly bolted sport into one oddball pitch. Not listed in the Thompson guide. The origin of the bolts has always been a mystery. There's been no recorded ascent but now we have a name and a grade. |
31 Jan 2017
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| FA? Probably not. This route climbs through the runout section of the American's Baby, then cuts right to clip 3 bolts. Combines runout trad and poorly bolted sport into one oddball pitch. Not listed in the Thompson guide. The origin of the bolts has always been a mystery. There's been no recorded ascent but now we have a name and a grade. | ||||||
| Kompromat (6c) | Hadn't seen the sun in over 3 weeks then got this perfect sunny day at Endless with Threlfall. Great new route on perfect rock that climbs an obvious dihedral feature. |
25 Jan 2017
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| Hadn't seen the sun in over 3 weeks then got this perfect sunny day at Endless with Threlfall. Great new route on perfect rock that climbs an obvious dihedral feature. | ||||||
| The Erogenous Zone (6b+) | RS. Nice route. Seems like it would be runout at the crux. Maybe I didn't look hard enough. |
20 Jan 2017
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| RS. Nice route. Seems like it would be runout at the crux. Maybe I didn't look hard enough. | ||||||
| Devil Man (6b) | RS. I dropped a rope on this old historic route to try to find it. Kelly Faust did this before the establishment of Flash Point and Euronation. This one starts on FP and finishes on EN. He placed one bolt that I couldn't find. It may have become one of the FP bolts or may have been chopped? Not sure if I stayed right on his line...I wandered. Somewhat of a mystery still. |
21 Dec 2016
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| RS. I dropped a rope on this old historic route to try to find it. Kelly Faust did this before the establishment of Flash Point and Euronation. This one starts on FP and finishes on EN. He placed one bolt that I couldn't find. It may have become one of the FP bolts or may have been chopped? Not sure if I stayed right on his line...I wandered. Somewhat of a mystery still. | ||||||
| Escape Room (8b) | McCray's Wide Open Beaver project—a perfect overhanging corner with no holds. Spent quite a few days slipping off of this thing. After figuring out the shoe beta, and accepting that I'd feel like I was falling on every move, I managed to fall my way up it. Impossible to grade. Took 13a strength and 14a skills. |
19 Dec 2016
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| McCray's Wide Open Beaver project—a perfect overhanging corner with no holds. Spent quite a few days slipping off of this thing. After figuring out the shoe beta, and accepting that I'd feel like I was falling on every move, I managed to fall my way up it. Impossible to grade. Took 13a strength and 14a skills. |