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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2008-08-27  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  
We know that www.8a.nu is not userfriendly (and maybe not this User Guide either :). We are working on it and here is a User Guide and some FAQ info that might be interesting. Please feel free to add questions via comments and we will update this article.

Log in using your Member ID Number instead of your e-mail. (You find it to the left at the top on your scorecard)
Messages can be selected to be sent to your e-mail at your presentation page
You can add up to 50 pages in your Gallery
You can ad sponsor links at your profile page
My 8a friends - Stay alerted of your friends ascents
Forum alias - You can select an alias but others can click to see the real name
Forum Dr 8a - You can discuss with a real doctor, Björn Alber, in the forum

You can select to be a log-book member without points and ranking or a scorecard member
Add (& Search) Recommended climbs - They are shown as a thumb up in your scorecard

The Top-10 ascent the last 12 months gives score and a ranking
8a = 1000, 7a = 700 points etc, 145 bonus points for onsight, and 53 for flash
Grade conversion: 8a = 5.13b, 29, V11, IX+/X- 
When the same climb have different grade it is shown in your scorecard
All time high score = Top-10 History ranking


You can also select to Search & Add ascents

Soft = When you think the route is easy for the grade Hard = Difficult for the grade
FA = First Ascent (10 bonus points for routes, 5 bonus points for boulders)
Second Go = You make the ascent on your second attempt incuding onsight/flash
Traditional = Protection with nuts and friends (30 bonus points)
Recommended = These climbs will be shown at your scorecard with thumbs up
Log-book ascent = A stand start of the sist start you have done or the easier variation of two routes

From the left: Edit the ascnet by the pen, Repeat ascent by recycle, Thumbs up for recommendations

Add repeats by symbol to the left - You can select but only get points once a year for a repeat
Edit ascents by the pen to the left - When you would like to correct

8a Background
In 1999, Jens Larssen started www.8a.nu. He had been coaching Said Belhaj and the Junior National Team for six years and the idea was to publish old training articles and information on the local sport climbing scene including the 100 routes he had opened. In 2000, Jens invented the scorecard together with webmaster Leif Jägerbrant and started co-operation with Björn Pohl who had been running an international boulder newsletter for three years. Since 2003, Jonas Emanuelsson has been the editor and Ignacio Sandoval Buron, the spanish editor.

8a Owners & Contact
In 2006, the company 8a Climbing Inc was created and share holders are: Jens, Jonas, Björn, Leif, Tomasz Ratajczak, CJ Svensson, Henrik af Petersen, Markuz Lindgren, Martina Cufar, Said Belhaj, Adam Ondra, Dani Andrada and Chris Sharma. There are over 60 updated members who can contribute news. Anybody who is interested can be an editor.

8a Statements

1. No slash grades - Grades are not so important!
2. Anti chipping - Low priority on chipped ascents, no chipped boulders in scorecard.
3. Secret crags - Low prio on ascents with access problems
4. Anorexia - Low prio on promoting anorectic climbers
5. Traverse grading - Unneccassary and Illogical
6. Climbing ethics - Green, Yellow, Red card
7. Bouldering ethics - Green or Red card
8. Logg-book, No score - Ascents without getting points
9. Solo - Low prio on solo climbing

8a Innovations

A. Scorecard - "Play" with points for motivation and ranking
B. Competitions - New formats suggested and copied
C. Grading theory - Suggestions and community confirmation
D. Blog cash - Giving back money to the community
E. The ABC of climbing LIFESTYLE
F. Boulders & (Eliminations) Problems
G. Free yearbook since 2006
H. Ticklist - Best routes & boulders in the world. Free 96 pages book 2009
I. Belaying soft - Jumping or sliding
J. 8A Airpad - A larger crashpad based on air
K. Mobile.8a.nu - Add ascents and stay updated through your mobile
L. Grigri technique - New technique suggested and copied
M. 8A reports boulder & 8a reports routes
N. 8Aa stands for boulderroutes
O. jens@8a.nu Prices run from Euro 250 - 1200 per month

8a Statistics
Based on our own measurements we had 17 639 visits from 4 345 computers on the Global page September 1, 2008. In total, we had 34 000 visits from 6 700 computers on that day. Over a month, some 66 000 computers pay us a visit. Based on the Google statistics, the traffic is 60 % higher.

8a Blog Cash Comp
In 2009, we will give away cash money to the most visited blogs. More details to come. We are looking for sponsors.