Tomás Mrázek

The perfect role-model! By Jens Larssen 050110, pictures Björn Strömberg

Tomᚠtogether with his girlfriend Helena at Railay

- Climb, Climb, Climb…
I try to come up with more questions to make TomᚠMrázek reveal the secrets behind his amazing success during the latest years.
- OK, breathing, motivation and a beautiful girlfriend, and both he and Helena smiles.

Best in the world... - but no fame and glory!
TomᚠMrázek (22) is the world's best sport climber with a track record for the last three years that is really outstanding. Nevertheless, he is quite unknown and even 8a didn't recognize the celebrity when he belayed his girlfriend, at the Tonsai beach at Railay, who seemed to attract more attention than him. In fact, Tomᚠsays that 8a is the first international media to interview him. The lack of fame and glory is propably because he is from the Czech Republic.

Little support... but a dedicated coaching girlfriend!
After an opening conversation, with assistance of an interpretor, I get more and more puzzled: No good gym or outdoor climbing in his hometown. No trainer, little support from the national federation, no international sponsors...no nothing but - Climb, Climb, Climb! And Helena Lipenska, #11 in the world championship in 2001and #17 at 8a world ranking, who tries to bring some organization.

- Normally we go to a climbing gym in Austria for specific route training and then I plan for three restdays, but we are lucky if we get two, says Helena and Tomᚠsmiles again and I can see it in his eyes again (climb, climb, climb). It seems like nowadays, money is not a big issue as Tomᚠnormally collect thousands of USD every World Cup. - I have very good contact with my local sponsors. Of course I am interesting in international sponsorship but so far there has been no good offer and I have always been afraid of the risk of too much hazzle with international sponsors.

Tomᚠdoes the hardest route at Tonsai, 8b+ (8c)

Climb, Climb, Climb... no plan, no periodization, no tactic!
Ok, as he has accomplished this almost by himself, there must be some interesting secrets to be revealed I conclude and the cross examination begins. - Climb, Climb, Climb! I challenge him from all angels. I mention periodization, campus board, route reading, restdays etc. The answer comes back to the same phrase over and over again - Climb, Climb, Climb! - Ok, I give up. Give me the secrets. Tomᚠsmiles and Helena says, breathing and motivation...and a beautiful girlfriend he adds.

The show, the challenge is the motivator... not the isolation nor the competition result!
We discuss competition climbing and he begins to talk about the show, the challenge and how the competition format could be changed. - The isolation is the most boring part and it is really difficult to perform after having spent some six hours there. We discuss the suggested format that 8a have published and he says that flash in the qualification could be an improvement. The isolation is a struggle but the show in the final is the reward, he says and his eyes sparkel.

Train, Train, Train... yes 50 days in a row!
After a couple weeks at Railay, Tomᚠhas done all the interesting routes and you can see that he starts getting restless when he tries to create new boulders by the beach in Ton sai. - I am longing for my gym and some hard intensive training. We usually do not stay more than two weeks at the same crag. You can feel how it is itching in his fingers for a plastic session where he can push himself to the limit. He recalls his first contact with climbing at the age of 14 and how he had started the traing by 50 days in a row. And from a drawing it seems like a huge campus board was the most important furniture at his room when he was a child. His smile reveals any further answer to my questions so I ask him whether he wants to check my article before being published on 8a. Climb, Climb, Climb is the answer!