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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2006-01-04  | Category: Training    | Comment  
 8a.nu

Muscle or Hold Focus: Static optimization

lama3.gif

David Lama doing a static lock-off bicep muscle move.

kneedrop.jpg

Technically, Mentally and Fysically challenged on a knee-drop.


Most climbers aim for a more dynamic style of climbing. However, most of the World Cup climbers are monsters when it comes to static muscle strength! Why this contradiction? Why and When should you strive for static and dynamic movements respectively? How does this relate to mental focus when you are about to do the crux move? The Idea for this article sprang from the problems that many climber friends have with long, overhanging and pumpy climbs. To them i always say:

- Don't focus on the next hold, but focus on flexing your muscles. You should concentrate on getting your lower hand as close as possible to your chest before reaching for the next hold with your upper hand. It is your arm muscles that will decide if you reach and stick to the next hold.


Based on effort, the best technique for one (1) single move is often semi-dynamic, as it reduces stress on the lower arm compared to a static move. However, if you have to do 15 similar moves in a row it is often better to climb more static. There are two main reasons for this; firstly, static movements enables the moving hand to rest for a split second and, secondly, it is also less straining for the hand to grab a hold after a static (i.e. controlled) move. This is why so many of the top climbers in the World Cup are static climbers. Most of them are so programmed in doing static moves that they never switch to dynamic style. Hence, as soon their static power has come to an end they will, sometimes strangely and suddenly, fall.

To become a stronger climber you should focus your training on static muscle movements. However, your training must also include dynamic movements. The reason for this is that it is very simple to practice and perform static moves compared to dynamic moves, since the latter is more mentally challenging. So, if you only train static moves, you will suffer from mental blockages in attempting onsights. However, if you only train dynamic, you will lack the power to lock-off.

Extra study - Knee-drop moves

 Challenges

Fysical

Technical

Mental

 Static

High

 -

 -

Knee-drop

High

High

High

Dynamic

 -

 Low

High

The most complicated move in climbing is the knee-drop, which challenges you Fysically, Technically and Mentally. In order to do a knee-drop, you have to pass the critical point where the feet is pushing your center of gravity outwards before you achieve the inward position that will enable a long cross-over. The World Cup climbers have become experts on the complicated knee-drop move since the route setters often want to show the audience something spectacular.

 

 



 



 

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