Schwaiger training

Concerning training: ... where should I start!? I made a lot of experiences and tried a lot of training exercises over the last years.

Well, if I want to have "progress" on hard problems or projects, trying and working on the moves or sections of these problems works best for me. In Austria weather is really changing a lot, which means a lot of rain and not so good conditions. In these forced "rock free" periods I try to keep (or even rise) my level with some special exercises and methods for gaining power / maximum recruitment. I guess you are curious about those exercises ;))!?

Mainly it’s a "personalized" mix of campusing and dynamic moves on small holds and crimps. My campusboard is "only" the same as my 45° overhanging bouldering wall - I do various plyometric moves/exercises on small crimps (also with closed crimp position!?). The dynamic moves include jumps and other coordinative challenging moves on small crimps for example. Another favourite exercise of me is the "crimp to closed crimp squeezing" with one hand (only a little relief)...

I’ve started working on my <a href="http://www.schwaigerbrothers.com/training-bernhard.html"target="_blank">"POWER CONCEPT" which will be (and already partly is) online</a> in small bites/appetizers in the near future - including some of my experiences and ideas from the last years! The main thing is, that it’s all trained with "high intensity techniques" adapted to maximum recruitment training for climbing - really stimulating your muscles to the maximum with only one set per exercise for example.

So you train with minimum quantity (only 2 or 3 times a week, as your muscels need the time to grow and recover completely) but maximum quality and effectiveness - saves a lot of (useless) time. Sounds impossible but also fascinating - doesn’t it!? And if weather is getting better you’re perfectly prepared for sending your projects... ;)))

There might also be some critics about this methods - of course it needs a lot of experience with training and your body as well - but for me it’s definitely the most effective form of training ever tried - the still possible improvements/increases in power over the last years have shown, that it works perfectly (at least for me) ;)...

Apart from that I also have a look on a healthy and well balanced nutrition - it’s very important what you eat (or don’t eat) before and after training or climbing. I don’t use supplements - it’s a waste of money in my opinion!
I hope this gives you an idea (small bites and infos on our website already), nice greetings,