Open & Closed Crimp


Friday, 19 February

Open Crimp = Hanging & Closed Crimp = Moving   07/01/10

Click to Enlarge PictureTraining/Jens: The optimum finger crimp position differs from Hanging and Moving as they involve different loads and body positions. While you grab, start hanging and prepare for the next move, your brain will normally select a more open crimp position compared to your strongest possible more closed position for executing moves.

Executing a move means that the load of the crimping angle increases up to failure. As the crimping position opens, most of it's power is gone, i.e. the chain breaks. Sometimes the thumb over the index finger can make a crimp stronger.

Different crimping strategy apply for a boulderer who grabs the holds for Moving compared to a route climber who opts for Hanging but during the cruxes should opt gripping position to Moving mode, i.e. a close crimp if possible!


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