Multiple big wall free solos by Stuffer

Free solo climbing Summer 2005 for Manfred Stuffer

Ottovolante 360 meters, 7a+ - free solo and onsight!

Ascents on the Tofana (Dolomites) and 7c+ free solo!

Manfred Stuffer, mountain guide from Ortisei in the Dolomites (Val Gardena), who has been already known in the past for his difficult climbs (up to 8c+/9a) and solos, did some remarcable ascents and solos this Summer. The climbs he did without rope were probably some of the most spectacular of these times.

But let's start from the beginning. In June, Manfred starts the season with the onsight   ascent of "Via attraverso il pesce", 7b+, (the famous "fish") on the Marmolada south face (left pic.).

On July 2nd 2005 Manfred does the big ascents on the Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites (picture):

Stuffer climbs the "Costantini Apollonio", 6c+,  the "Costantini Ghedina" and the "Alverà" (1. Arete, 1. Spigolo) running up and down the wall three times in 5 hours and 30 minutes (starting from Rifugio Dibona and back to Rifugio Dibona). He climbs everything free (also the two difficult roofs with slopers on the "Costantini Apollonio") without pulling any gear, without using any harness or rope. The total climbing lenght of the three routes is 2180 meters! The highest grade is 6c+. The last time Stuffer did the three routes before the solos on July 2^nd, was about three years ago!

After the three routes on the Tofana di Rozes, on the same day, Manfred drives to his favorite sport climbing crag at Pian Schiavaneis on the Sellagroup, where he does "Ciapa e tira", 7c+, free solo. A good day! He is probably also one of the first Italians soloing 7c+.

Who is now thinking that Stuffer is just crazy, is totally wrong. In fact at the end of July (again at Pian Schiavaneis) he climbs "Linea Mortale", 8b+/8c, (this time with rope...) and on Piz Ciavazes he free climbs (again with rope) the "Via Italia", 8a, on the 2^nd try. It is the 4^th and fastest redpoint of this 200 meters long old aid climb over a 4-meter-roof.

On August 12^th Manfred Stuffer does one of the most spectacular solos ever. He onsights(!) "Ottovolante", 7a+, on the Torre Brunico in the Sellagroup. The route is 11 pitches long and Manfred climbs it totaly free without rope and, for the first time on this level, onsight. On just one move (on bad slopers) Manfred uses a long sling for self belaying (totally 1,5 meters). It is probably the first time ever that somebody solos 7a+ onsight on a 360 meter wall! For Manfred this was "one of the best climbs I've ever done".

Manfred's next highlight is on October 1^st: he climbs two routes on the Tofana di Rozes, "Good bye 99" and "Da Pozzo vecchio Pazzo" onsight in the same day. Totally there are 20 pitches up to 7c with mixed natural and bolted protection.

In the nice and warm autumn 2005 of the Dolomites, Stuffer does a few more interesting climbs:

-         first free ascent of  "Via della Giraffa" (picture) on Sass Ciampac (8 pitches, natural protection and some pitons, 7c+);

-         "Via Luciano da Pozzo" onsight on the Cima Scotoni (10 pitches, natural protection and some bolts, loose rock, 7c+)

On October 28^th it's time for a solo run again: Manfred first climbs "Via Rossi", 6b, on the first Sellatower (Sellagroup, 6 pitches) and then "Via Bertoldi", 6b, 6 pitches, on the same face in totally one hour. He does everything free, without rope and the second route on sight!

We thank Manfred Stuffer and Flavio Moroder for text and pictures!