1 August 2007

Mammut shoe review

SAMURAI - the new performer shoe from MAMMUT
Carl Johan Svensson

Samurai
 Earlier Mammut didn't really have anything to offer when it came to high end shoes, i.e. shoes that you use for your hardest climbs. That’s why it was extra interesting for us at 8a to try out their new shoe Samurai that Mammut hopes will compete with La Sportiva and 5.10 for the performance climbers.

 The shoe breathes quality. It's EU produced in very soft leather. It has Vibram sole on the front and back, and Lycra in the middle to provide an easier fit. The softness is needed because of the otherwise very aggressive shape. When I try the shoe, the arch of the foot is “sucked” up to the inside of the shoe and you get a sensation of a perfect fit. It is amazingly soft for a new shoe and of course you wonder if this immediate softness will hold wear and tear?

 Out on the granite it works perfect on small holds and feet. My toe doesn’t slip once and that’s pretty rare for new shoes. In the overhangs I get the same sensation and after only 100m of climbing the shoe feels “climbed in”. But when I hook I feel there is a small, small pocket of air in the heal and perhaps my heals are a bit too funky for the aggressive shape, despite the softness. Lacing hard adjusts this problem.

 I believe in the Samurai. It instantantly fits almost perfectly and feels stabile on crimpers as well as slopers. With the Samurai I think Mammut can move in on an already overheated market. Time will tell.*

Rate: 4.5 (5)
Colour: Blue-green
Material: Suede, Lycra
Weight: 350 g
Sole: Vibram 3.5mm

*After 4 month of climbing I am all in favour of these shoes. They fit perfect, the feeling is great, and I don't want to use any of my old "wear and tear" shoes since they feel terrible. At the gym my feet long for the Samurai. I will not stop using the LS testarossa but I will definitely alternate between these two brands. Especially since the softness in the Samurai comes with a price; they wear faster than shoes with a thicker sole. However, with this shoe, Mammut have shown that they too can produce top-of-the-line performance shoes...

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