Kleman Becan Interview

Klemen Becan is #2 in the 8a onsight world ranking including 26 onsights 8a+ and harder, only in the last year. His hardest onsight is 8b+ and his hardest redpoint is 8c! In 1997,  he won the Junior World championship and in 2004 he was #4 in Marabella WC and won the most prestigues outdoor comp. Our new Slovenian editor, Uros Baumgartner, has interviewed another superclimber from the country with only 2 million inhabitants.

Why this obsession for onsights? Why don't you go for 9a's?

Because I love climbing and I don't like working routes. If I don't send a route in let's say five tries, I get bored because the
moves start repeating themselves. However, when you climb on-sight, every move is something new and you have to solve the problems as you go. If you climb only one route, you loose motivation a lot faster when falling at the last crux. While climbing on-sight you try many more different routes and new combinations of moves. For the better part of the season I train for the competitions. We climb on-sight there, and that is one of the reasons I pay so much attention to this way of climbing.

How many times a week do you train and How?
I train 3-5 times a week. It depends on the difficulty of the sessions and on the competitions schedule.  If possible I train outside. I climb on-sight, mostly stuff that is more difficult than what I can normally climb. I train inside only when it is not possible to go outside 
 
What do you pay most attention to in training?
Climbing on-sight and giving my best at every go.

Have you ever had injury problems?
Not yet, luckily.

Do you take care of what you eat (before, during and after climbing)?
No. I eat what I like and as much as I like, mainly pasta when camping.  J

What do you think is important for climbers?
The head! If your mind is not ready than nothing can help you.

Have you got a trainer?
No.

How many pull-ups can you do?
Ten years ago I could do 40.

Any other speciality?
I tried to campus at the beginning of this year, but after a couple of sessions one of my fingers started to hurt, so I stopped and went climbing outside in the nature.

You also took part at the Petzl Rock Trip 2004 and won the ultimate route competition. (Sharma, Pouvreau, Brenna, Mclure, Andrada, Dulac, Pons etc)
In the Ultimate route contest (about 9a difficulty), we studied the route for about 30 minutes each, and on the third day of the event we climbed in the manner of difficulty climbing but with more attempts. I won because I reached the highest point in my first (onsight) attempt. Unfortunately, the route remained unclimbed, I'll be back! The whole event took place in a relaxed atmosphere, with everyone enjoying climbing and not even noticing there was competing involved. And that's what I liked most.

Sponsors?
Vrh, Beal.

What is your goal for the future?
To climb as long as possible and enoy every minute of it, and to equal onsight and redpoint.